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SRC G36e upgrades

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  • SRC G36e upgrades

    Hi there all,

    Getting back into the sport after a (long) hiatus. I'm a technically minded individual and really enjoyed taking apart and putting together internals all those years ago.

    As such, I'm looking to super-charge my SRC36e gen3. At the moment it is completely stock, it has been skirmished a handful of times and has never had any problems. Current FPS is around 280 mark (although that was last chrono'd about 5 years ago), I believe it is installed with a m90 spring, however I also own a 110/100, and may install it if I am still a little low on fps after other upgrades. Main aim here is simply to fire a long distance and hit what I want to hit, I suppose you could call that range and accuracy if you like. But ideally the gun would not fall apart somewhere not too far down the road, I suppose you could cal that reliability?

    List of upgrades:
    Hop + rubber - currently looking at TM and madbull (per recommendations on some old forum post here)
    TB barrell - looking at 6.03, any recommendations?

    Anything else you recommend? I have heard that generally the SRC internals are pretty good, the accuracy hasn't been stellar here so that's why I have focused on barrel and hop but i'd be interested what else you had in mind

    Thanks in advance
    Originally posted by tyler
    Quote:
    hit them then from another angel
    Originally posted by murta369
    gabriel perhaps?

  • #2
    Re: SRC G36e upgrades

    From experience working on these when we had a batch at the local site for rentals, I spent a lot of time fixing them. Besides the labeling of "upgraded 8mm internals" that have been clearly poorly thought out, My biggest gripe is that they are not 100% TM compatible.

    Based on what I learned from rental repairs;

    The Good

    * Strong GB Shell
    * Good Ball Bearings
    * Good Spring Guide with Bearings
    * Nice Feel to the plastics, body construction generally nicer and more relaistic.
    * Motor Can design is nice, easy to disassemble/upgrade + Decent strength Magnets
    * Air Nozzle is well made and seals well.
    * Nice durable Ported Aluminium Piston Head

    The Bad
    * The Hop Chamber Design - It it not TM Spec and SRC took it upon themselves to improve something that wasn't a problem in the first place by making it worse - The Barrel Clips are complete cheese and the shaft is too large for even the stock barrel with the collar included - As a result, it quickly loosens and you loose seal, consistancy and eventually the problem becomes so bad you won't be able to play.
    * Inner Barrel - The Grooves cut out for the locking C-Clip are far too shallow, which partly contribute to the failures above.
    * The Cut-off lever is the same crude pot metal used by JG and a number of other brands and wears out quickly with lots of semi auto use.
    * The Gear shafts are very poor, much like G&P's, the axles have a habbit of failing without warning. The sector gear shaft is the most common, but others have gone without warning too.
    * Due to the proprietary chamber design, the TM spec Mag-wells are not compatible, so if you want to fix the nasty chamber issues by swapping those parts over to TM then you will also need a new mag well.
    * The Stock piston is OEM by SHS, but its the nasty cheese green one with one tooth, these have failed or those that didn't quite were discovered to be excessively worn and had to be replaced.
    * The Motor cage is SRC's own design again, it will fit in a TM spec lower, but a lot more effort is required.
    * Tappet Plates, seem to be fairly common failure.
    * Cylinder head - OEM'd by SHS again, these are aluminium but the inner nozzle is very thin and being a G36 specific V3 head are also longer - I have had to replace a few of these because that inner nozzle has snapped.
    * Motor Pulls too much power - resulting in poor switch lifespan. Despite being well made and with a good potential, the stock armature is neither well made or well matched. I have replaced at least 3 armatures on these last year.
    * Tappet springs - seem too tight, possibly partly contributing to the more frequesnt tappet plate failure, but they are also unreliable too, often breaking in half and leaving people stranded in the field with a gun that won't feed.
    * General Takedown - thanks to the chamber design, the usual simple takedown procedure of the TM G36 and it's clones is no more - you need to remove the whole front barrel assembly - whilst this is only 5 screws away, it's still awkward compared to the TM spec.
    * Motor Pinion and corresponding Bevel teeth design - they are just noisy by poor design. If you are going to replace the Gear set, replace the motor pinion too.
    * Main spring - Have had to replace plenty of these too, completely snapped into pieces on a number of occasions.

    All of above have been examples of Stock guns and over the course of a year on site - which despite heavier use, is still poor show. The other brands that were also added to the collection were less than half the price and were far less problematic.


    With all of the negatives on the internals dusted aside, there is a nice base gun to work with, and a solid V3 gearbox as an internals base.

    From working with many of these, from experience, what I would suggest and what I would also do myself is; (most of which has been carried out to those rentals after they had failed)
    * Marui/JG/CYMA Mag well
    * Marui/Prowin G36 Chamber
    * Marui, Prometheus Purple, Lonex, G&G Green hop bucking etc... (list can go on)
    * Decent quality inner barrel (marui will be good, but you could go better depending on budget)
    * MOSFET + low resistance wiring throughout (about £10 posted over here and will make the world of difference to response and trigger lifespan)
    * Steel Cut off lever (particularly if you use semi auto a lot) - They are around 3-5 quid by SHS, ZCI, Lonex, Guarder they are all steel and only a few quid. Just don't pick up another pot metal or aluminium one even if they look fancy.
    * Decent LiPO - 7.4v 2200mah + and 20C+ paired with the FET makes things nice and snappy.
    * New gear set + Pinion gear for motor ("O" type) (SHS is good on a budget, but even cheaper - stock JG gears are far better than stock)
    * New piston - SHS 7 tooth goes nicely and is far better by design to the one it's replacing but if you have more to spend there are better options. Avoid anything Polycarbonate.
    * Main spring - Guarder, Prometheus, PDI are just a few good ones to name.
    * New Tappet plate + Spring - SHS, Lonex are farily cheap from the right places.
    Last edited by sj_asc; 12 April, 2017, 23:55.
    dsgdreamteam

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