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  • A technical guide thread: VERY picture heavy

    Hi, here is my, (TB(Technical Bastard)-Stalker)'s quick walk through guide of how to install a FTK/service your gearbox (Version 2) before the weekender incase anyone is having problems. This is just a taste of the full one I have in store. I have done this one using pictures and instructions, but when I have done all of the versions I will convert them to videos.

    I thought I would save the mods some trouble by making this thread and uploading versions one by one and letting people ask questions on it so it can get long and messy and when I have done all of the gearbox versions I will upload a new thread with them all done in video format so mods dont need to tidy this thread as I want people to ask questions here. Also mods please do not lock this thread as I need to be able to update it.

    Right, so here we go, this is a guide of how to dismantle a version 2 gearbox and either just clean up all the parts after it has first arrived or install a FTK (Full Tune up Kit). All notes accompany the picture below them unless specified otherwise.

    This is an ACM gearbox, kindly donated by "Inferno05"

    So firstly the tools I recommend you have to hand in order to perform gearbox work:

    1) Precision screwdrivers (Phillips, Flat head and Torx)
    2) Screwdriver set (I prefer to use a magnetic set)
    3) Needle nose plyers
    4) Allen Key set
    5) Gear Grease (I am using Abbey Gun Grease http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/produc...oducts_id=5448 but white lithium will work just as well.
    6) Silicone Lube (I am using Abbey Silicone Grease http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/produc...oducts_id=2390)
    7) Tweezers (useful to have along with plyers for more delicate work but not essential)
    8) Cotton buds (Great for applying gear grease)



    Items 1-4 can be picked up from B&Q for about £25-30
    Items 4&5 are sold my most airsoft retailers, most brands will be fine, I just prefer Abbey.
    I'm sure all of you with mothers/girlfriends/wives will have tweezers lying around.
    Cotton buds can be picked up from boots for 75p for 200

    Here is a quick parts picture so you know what is what as we go along:



    1) Spring
    2) Spring Guide
    3) Tappet Plate
    4) Cylinder Head
    5) Cylinder
    6) Air Nozzle
    7) Piston
    8) Tappet Plate Spring
    9) Bevel gear
    10) Sector Gear
    11) Anti Reversal Latch
    12) Spur Gear


    Right, now on to the disassembly:

    1) You will need to remove your gearbox from the receiver and motor so it looks like this:



    2) Then you need to remove the screws from the gearbox casing (usually phillips screws but in this case T9 torx screws were used.



    3) Push a screwdriver into the rear of the gearbox and into the spring guide to take some of the tension off of the spring This step is crutial! Otherwise you may have the contents of your gearbox flying across the room!

    4) Remove the gearbox shell, you may need to press down on the cylinder and pry the gearbox open with a flat head precision screwdriver as they can be stiff. Some parts, especially in chinese gearboxes, may be stock to the other side of the gearbox case, such as the bevel gear etc.

    5) Then slowly release the tension of the spring and hold down the rest of the parts. You should now have something like this:



    6) Now remove the tappet plate spring using needle nose plyers:



    7) Now slide the spring and spring guide out of the gearbox. (The spring may be attached to the piston, in which case just slide the piston out as well.)



    8) Now you can remove the tappet plate, cylinder, air nozzle and cylinder head from the gearbox, simply roll them out. Place these to one side for now, you can take them apart in a second.



    9) Now focus on the gears. First remove the Bevel gear.



    10) Now remove the Sector gear.



    11) Now remove the Anti reversal latch, take note of how the spring is mounted on it so you can replace it later.



    12) Now remove the Spur gear.

    13) You will now be greeted with the horror show that is the inside of a Chinese gearbox, the amount of grease used is excessive and usually low quality.



    14) Remove any shims (small silver discs where the gears were, don't confuse these with the bushings which sit flat to the gearbox case.)

    15) Clean all of the grease off both sides of the gearbox case, making sure not to damage the electrical components. (I usually use a combination of an old rag and kitchen role.)

    16) Now separate the tappet plate, cylinder, cylinder head, and air nozzle so you have all your parts like this:



    17) Now rub all the grease and lube (usually the same grease used on both rubber and metal!) off of the parts, including the gears, tappet plate, cylinder (inside and out), cylinder head, air nozzle and spring guide.



    16) Once all your parts are clean you are ready to start reassembling the gearbox If you are installing an FTK you will need to remove the bushings (highlighted on the previous picture) and replace them with your new ones before going any further

    17) Now you need to get out your gear grease (shown below) and use one of the cotton buds to the bushings, (don't worry about rubbing it in as when you place the gears in the bushings they will do this for you.)




    18) Now we will begin to replace the gears, but first, you need to shim the gears, as an initial shimming place one shim on the underside of the Spur gear.



    19) Now get your anti reversal latch and add one shim to the underside (you will need to remove the spring on it to do this) do not grease the reversal latch. Place it in the gearbox and test the spring works, (it should make it flip up towards the Spur gear at the moment, however this is NOT the position it needs to be in at the end.



    20) Now it is time to add the Sector gear, add a shim to the bottom of the gear, (Before you insert this gear you need to pull the anti reversal latch down and away from the Spur gear so that it locks behind the Sector gear) this can sometimes require some effort so dont be afraid to put some strength behind it.

    21) Now add the Bevel gear, again with a shim on the underside, rotate the gears whilst holding the top of the Bevel and Sector gear and the anti reversal latch so they don't pop out, if you have installed them all correctly the following should happen: All of the gears should move if you turn the Bevel gear, also the gears will only move one way as the anti reversal latch is stopping them from reversing, hence its name. You have now added all the gears and shimms! (This is NOT a final adjustment, this is just an initial fitting)



    22) Once you have made sure all the gears are fitted properly, place the other side of the gearbox shell on the gearbox, the gears should push any excess grease through the bushing so just wipe this off. (You don't need to screw the gearbox together)



    23) Pick up the gearbox and using a finger in the top (where the cylinder would usually be) rotate the Bevel gear, you should feel the gears rotate, there should be little resistance, but the gears should not rattle or move from side to side. (Make it smooth but make it tight!) If they are fine then you are ready to move on, if not, remove the case and then add more shims if they are loose and take shims off if they are very hard to turn.



    24) Now that your gears are aligned perfectly, take the top shell off and remove all of the gears except for the Spur gear and the anti reversal latch and place a four spots of gear grease on the Spur gear (about the amount you put on each bushing).



    25) Apply a small amount of gear grease to the bottom of the Sector gear and then fit it again.



    26) Then rub in the grease you put on the Spur gear with a finger so it covers the outer teeth (see picture below) then rotate the two gears so it gets right in between all the teeth. Don't worry if this isn't perfect as when the gears rotate at speed the grease spreads slightly. (Do not over grease your gears, you have the luxury of time which the manufacturers don't so use it!



    27) Then apply grease to the bottom of the Bevel gear (in the picture there is grease on the top as well, this is from the bushings.) Now fit the Bevel gear, you will need to align your gears so that the knob on the top of the Bevel gear is in the correct position (THIS IS CRUTIAL, SEE PICTURE)




    28) Now put your gear grease away and rub any of it you have on your hands off and get out your Silicon lube (see below)



    29) You need to rub Silicon lube around the black O-ring of the cylinder head using your finger, never use a cotton bud. (Part in the background of the above picture.)

    30) Now you need to make a thin layer of Silicon lube on the inside of the cylinder. Now fit the cylinder head into the cylinder, you want to have it so the flat part of the cylinder head (on which the air nozzle is seated) is just inside the cylinder.




    31) Now apply silicon lube to the piston rail so it slides smoothly along the gearbox.



    32) Do the same as above for the tappet plate groove.



    33) LIGHTLY lube the cylinder head nozzle, (not the top)



    34) Slide the air nozzle onto it and then off to spread the lube.



    35) Fit the air nozzle to the tappet plate



    36) Now fit the tappet plate and air nozzle to the cylinder and cylinder head. (If you have a ported cylinder make sure the holes in the cylinder are in line with the hole on the cylinder head.)



    37) Now roll the whole lot into the gearbox so it looks like this:



    38) Check the tappet plate can slide all the way forward without being stopped by the bevel gears knob (this will confirm that the gears are aligned correctly.) *******Make sure the cylinder is not touching the Bevel gear's teeth otherwise you will strip the gears when you cycle it!********



    39) Apply a generous amount of lube to the piston head (If you have bought an FTK you will have to assemble the piston and piston head and possibly the piston head itself. PM me if you need help with this)



    40) Slide the piston into the cylinder (do it at an angle to get the piston head in) then slide the piston all the way in. (a bit will stick out of the cylinder) Make sure the piston teeth are facing the gears!




    41) Using needle nose plyers, attach the tappet plate spring (sliding the tappet plate forward first)




    42) Check the spring is fitted correctly by pushing back on the air nozzle, the tappet plate should spring back when you let go.



    43) Check you have fitted all the parts correctly, (I have shown the tappet spring and the trigger unit.)




    44) Lube the spring guide bearings (this spring guide didn't have bearings so I am applying lube to the spring guide itself.



    45) Place the spring guide into the spring.



    46) Now you need to insert the spring and spring guide into the gearbox, use one hand to hold the cylinder etc in place and the other to push the spring in. (Make sure the spring guide's notches face down into the gearbox and the opposite one vertical, NOT horizontal as in the picture)



    47) Now you need to put the other side of the case on, (you may need to switch hands to do this) use a screwdriver to apply pressure to the spring, just like you did when you took the gearbox apart. Now place the case on the gearbox.

    48) Make sure the case is closed completely, check for gaps (here is an example of a gap you should look out for)



    49) Now start to put the screws back in the gearbox.



    50) Congratulations! You have now successfully disassembled and reassembled a Version 2 Gearbox!



    I hope this thread was helpful, If you have any comments or need any help or want to request another guide, just post here or send me a PM, I will be happy to answer any questions.

    Alex (TB-Stalker)
    WTB: TM HI-CAPA 5.1! CASH WAITING! PM ME!

  • #2
    Re: TB-Stalker's technical guide thread: Preview VERY picture heave

    I'll be first to say.. Thanks!

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: TB-Stalker's technical guide thread: Preview VERY picture heave

      Originally posted by LeeBristolAirsoft View Post
      I'll be first to say.. Thanks!
      No problem, just want to help out the community seeing as it is now my local. Just need to get a hold of a version 1 now :/
      WTB: TM HI-CAPA 5.1! CASH WAITING! PM ME!

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: TB-Stalker's technical guide thread: Preview VERY picture heave

        I have no idea about any of the stuff you just explained, but now I finally know what a tappet plate is!

        On a serious note, guides like this are invaluable. I'm learning more and more about my AEGs at the moment, and when I finally come to feeling confident enough to tinkering with and upgrading my own guns I'll be very grateful that people like you are sharing your knowledge. Thanks.
        102nd Chairborne Rangers - "Intelluctus VCRAus recte"

        Keyboard Commando - "He who argues until the other person gives up and goes away wins"

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: TB-Stalker's technical guide thread: Preview VERY picture heave

          Would be good in video format too with really detailed instructions, good video quality and taking it slow. Even if it went on for 20 minutes or longer, just do it in parts.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: TB-Stalker's technical guide thread: Preview VERY picture heave

            Originally posted by LeeBristolAirsoft View Post
            Would be good in video format too with really detailed instructions, good video quality and taking it slow. Even if it went on for 20 minutes or longer, just do it in parts.
            Yh, I am changing them to video format as soon as I get a tripod for the camera, I refuse to have to hold a video camera with one hand and try to do everything else.
            WTB: TM HI-CAPA 5.1! CASH WAITING! PM ME!

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: TB-Stalker's technical guide thread: Preview VERY picture heave

              Good luck with it, im looking forward to it!

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: TB-Stalker's technical guide thread: Preview VERY picture heave

                This is gonna be very very help full! Thanks a bunch for posting!


                Originally posted by Ominous Slayer
                A brain?
                Originally posted by snuff
                Can I borrow yours it's hardly used...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: TB-Stalker's technical guide thread: Preview VERY picture heave

                  Great guide, although you seem to have the sector gear and bevel gear mixed up, it should be the other way around.

                  Other than that fantastic work

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: TB-Stalker's technical guide thread: Preview VERY picture heave

                    Originally posted by Barny Hamon View Post
                    Great guide, although you seem to have the sector gear and bevel gear mixed up, it should be the other way around.

                    Other than that fantastic work
                    Yes I do! Why did I write that?! Thanks for pointing it out, I will be sure to edit that out in the final thread!
                    WTB: TM HI-CAPA 5.1! CASH WAITING! PM ME!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: TB-Stalker's technical guide thread: Preview VERY picture heave

                      Pictures 9 and 10 are mixed up haha

                      Also, on point 24, I would advise that you DO screw the gearbox back together each time you add a new shim or take one away. You don't need all the screws, just the three closest to where the gears sit to get a sort of triangle of pressure down on them. This is a much better (but longer) way of testing the shimming, as the screws put more pressure down than you can with your hands, and also, they will hold it together completely and let you test how well the gears turn without having to hold the halves together - which would add a lot of margin for error, not good on something as precise as shimming!

                      Otherwise, excellent guide, and I'm sure it will prove useful to many players! Next time use a nice Marui gear box thought - all that China metal and grease was making me feel sick! Eurgh!
                      Formerly 'Waltzinblack' but thought it was time to incorporate my Team callsign into my name

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: TB-Stalker's technical guide thread: Preview VERY picture heave

                        Yh, I wasn't loving the grease, but its the only gearbox I had around. Im looking forward to having them all in video, I hate taking photos etc
                        WTB: TM HI-CAPA 5.1! CASH WAITING! PM ME!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: TB-Stalker's technical guide thread: Preview VERY picture heave

                          Thanks for this it shows a lot for a newbie like me on how to look after your stuff
                          rockinrobin

                          This is ICS telling you that magpul should be burned and not fitted!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: TB-Stalker's technical guide thread: Preview VERY picture heave

                            Very good. Thanks for taking the time to write this one up

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: TB-Stalker's technical guide thread: Preview VERY picture heave

                              No problem guys, happy to help.
                              WTB: TM HI-CAPA 5.1! CASH WAITING! PM ME!

                              Comment

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