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Suppressing the noise of the piston - TM L96

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  • Suppressing the noise of the piston - TM L96

    Hey there Hivemind,

    Quick one for you sneaky snipers out there, I'm looking to quieten the "report" of my rifle but I'm seeing a lot of dubious information about on the various ways to do this.


    I've seen a lot of people suggesting airbrakes, sorbo pads glued to the piston and or the cylinder head and even taping the spring at the piston end to reduce vibrations.

    Can anyone advise as to what might be the best and preferably the easiest solution to make my rifle nice and hush hush?

    I'm using a TM L96 with the airsoft pro trigger and piston if that makes any difference.

    Thanks in advance!
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  • #2
    Hi! Good trigger and piston, the biggest noise to reduce is the piston hitting the cylinder head.

    Volume matching the cyclinder and barrel are key here. You've got 2 ways of doing this;
    1: Port the cylinder & sorbo the cylinder head.
    YOU WILL NEED ANOTHER CYLINDER
    2: Airbrake piston head & sorbo cylinder head.
    YOU MAY NEED TO BUY TWO (unless you find an adjustable one)

    You should only have/need a 303mm barrel in that to achieve max range and accuracy combined with very heavy ammo.
    A longer barrel will hurt accuracy.

    Start with stock gun and fit the sorbo to the cylinder head as this reduces volume, then measure your FPS.
    NB only fit sorbo, not rubber or plastic washers on top etc. They make a "clack" noise.

    From the rear of the cylinder make a couple of port cuts 6mm long. Retest FPS
    Repeat this making the cuts 6mm longer each time until you notice an FPS drop, at which point you will want to get your other cylinder and go back one step.
    I prefer this method as you can gain FPS from a ported cylinder as the piston gets up to speed faster in the ported zone.
    This in turn means you may be able to use a weaker spring, which means less sound report again

    The airbrake method is the same but you work backwards, trimming the brake shorter each time.

    3: Bonus Use a spring that gives max FPS with lowest resting preload. This means the piston isnt slammed into the head harder than necessary.
    You do this by using a stronger spring cut shorter.

    This isn't a quick process and you'll scrap a few parts but it pays off.

    Do keep updating with your progress, it's interesting and useful to see things develop

    Comment


    • #3
      PS love the paint job

      Comment


      • #4
        Hey Sprint, thanks for the info, I'll look into each of those methods and try and give one a go!

        I've never really looked into sorbo pads (I'm pretty new to teching guns although I've been playing for around 10 years) where would you recommend picking one up from?

        Also, would a sorbo pad alone be enough to dampen the slap of the piston? I'd rather not start cutting things or changing too much as I'm finally happy with the range and accuracy I'm getting after a lot of tinkering and don't want to jeopardise that.

        Cheers,

        Todd

        PS. Thanks, glad you like it!

        Comment


        • #5
          The sorbo will help but itll be marginal.

          You really need to use all the springs energy in pushing the BB so it comes to a stop at the sorbo rather than sledge hammer it

          If you got the gun shooting accurate at X FPS amount, then anything you do spring/cylinder wise will not affect that, you could get a couple of spare cylinders and a sorbo pad and then the worlds your oyster.
          You can always default back to your current setup

          I like the Airlab pads, I just cut the white bit off.
          Or a little harder are these;
          https://www.skirmshop.co.uk/pss10-vs...dampening.html

          Comment


          • #6
            Ah! Okay no worries, I'll pick up a sorbo and some cylinders and have a play.

            Do you have any images of the port cuts you have made to give me a better idea of what I should be aiming for?


            Cheers,

            Todd

            Comment


            • #7
              You'll need to measure and mark where the front edge of the piston seal is when fully back / retracted / cocked.

              Then mark a centrepoint 3mm forwards from that mark, make a 6mm hole there, that's your first one.
              Youll need a Dremel or half round needle file to de-burr the edges so the seal doesn't get marked. Be carful not to scratch the inside of the cylinder
              From then on just elongate that hole forwards 6mm each time.

              Think about the rotational position of the port so that it can't be seen when assembled, won't let dirt in, but can vent air easily.

              If you need more clarity I can do a doodle

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for that, makes a bit more sense now!

                I may have to hold off on doing that though, I didn't realise how expensive the cylinders are! And due to Covid I can't waste that money while I'm not working!

                I did order some sorbo pads and I'll be trying that out first and see what sort of results I get, might be enough for what I want!

                Cheers!

                Comment

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