KWA g18 fire selector stuck on full auto and safe

[guyhollman]

I bought my Magpul FpG a year ago and the fire selector is fine on full auto and safe but when i try and switch it to semi auto the selector pops out of the gun slightly, thus not allowing me to switch between semi and full auto.
Any help will be appreciated as i know they are notorious for fire selector issues.

[guyhollman]

Re: KWA g18 fire selector stuck on full auto and safe

IMAG0367.jpg
This is the gun in full auto
IMAG0370.jpg
And this is the gun where i attempted to switch it to semi auto

[dave38x]

Re: KWA g18 fire selector stuck on full auto and safe

To get it into semi just push it back into the gun and slide it up to semi. To solve the problem you need to get a 0.7mm allen key and tighten the grub screw in the rear sight dovetail - this should lock down onto the fire selector pin (if it hasn't fallen out).

The tighter it is the stiffer the fire selector will be.

[meddy]

Re: KWA g18 fire selector stuck on full auto and safe

give me a few mins and i'll do a photo guide (need to gather tools and stuff XD)

[meddy]

Re: KWA g18 fire selector stuck on full auto and safe

Ok first for some reason both Kwa g18c and the ksc g26c I have the grub screw is 0.9mm NOT 0.7mm (believe me I bought 20 0.7mm Allen keys thinking it was correct and it wasn't)

Anyway, push back the rear sight [part no. 5] (if you have one) to locate the pin grub screw [part no. 259]




Undo the grub screw until it pokes out a bit or so (this is so we have enough clearance inside)




Once it is done the selector should be a bit looser and pop out at an angle a little bit. Best thing to get the pin out is, set selector [part no. 255] to disassemble (often called safe) and press it against the body gently.



doing the above will make the selector pin [part no. 258] loose (if its stock but if after market steel replacement it will probably still be tight due to higher tolerances designed for it not to come back out easily)



Now I like to use some good strong needle tweezers and try and grip under the mushroom head of the selector pin [part no.258]





as you pull it out take notice of the correct orientation to put it back in, if upside down and once you try to screw the grub screw [part no. 259] down it will just snap off the end of the selector pin [part no.258] and you will lose all the selector parts

([part no. 255] [part no. 256] [part no. 257] rapidly after that (though [part no. 256] [part no. 257] are easily replaced with the MAG spring kit. but I have only found 2 sources of the selector [part no. 255] one hk site (comes in and out of stock at the moment) and the KWA pro shop in usa and they have limited stock left)





ok now that’s out you can let go of the selector [part no. 255] it should pop out a bit if you wiggle it between disassemble and semi auto. Now be careful as depending on what way you have the slide facing when you pull it out [part no. 256] [part no. 257] may fall/pop out or not. So once ready to catch things or have a neo magnet nearby



And here we see the inside of the hole, with [part no. 257] lurking in the disassembly “clicker hole”. You can also see that the pull out hole is offset towards semi auto.




And here you can see the hole where the selector pin [part no. 258] lurks, check for burs and the usual junk that can accumulate.



Now check the selector and the retaining pin slot and check also for burs, ware and the usual junk that can accumulate. Also check the actuating rod and see if it is bent or not.



And hers the evil useless stock selector pin [part no. 258] it causes so many problems for people few tricks you can do to help keep the stock one in the hole.
1. First and easiest way to keep everything together, and also the least aesthetically pleasant to see “if you want the look”, proper quality black gaffer/duck tape strip over the pin and around both sides of the back of the slide. Simple, effective and easy to do. Though not to all tastes.
2. Use genuine lock tight BLUE low strength or even easier use some humble/air fix model paint on the threads and when it thickened a bit so it doesn’t run off everywhere inside tighten it on the pin until your happy with the selector movement.
3. PTFE tape around the rear end of the pin to pack out the space in the hole, can help if you get the packing just right but lubricate oil can make it loose.

4. OR the best thing to do is find the steal replacement pin as it should be a nice snug fit on most metal slides





Now if everything is fine in here then it will properly be a bent hammer reset hook thing AKA part no. 253 , caused by trying to change fire modes whilst the slide is in locked forward. you can see the difference in this image (top part is the faulty one):


You can get a replacement but I have only found 2 sources of the selector [part no. 253] one HK site (comes in and out of stock at the moment) and the KWA pro shop in USA and they have limited stock left)
But as I’m lazy and it managed to survive my using 4 needle pliers and bending it back to the correct angle, as seen in this image



If needed I can do another guide on how to get this part out and put it back in (as it’s very awkward with the spring being so damn small)


And a bonus for you all, some handy reference for anyone with KWA auto glocks



And FPG owners

[guyhollman]

Re: KWA g18 fire selector stuck on full auto and safe

Thank you so much, my gun is finally fixed. I can now play without spending entire magazines in 5 seconds

[Scottiee]

Re: KWA g18 fire selector stuck on full auto and safe

Brilliant write up, cheers fella!

[dave38x]

I know this is a late response, but how are you having difficulty with keeping the selector pin in? It's never been too challenging on my glock...

Sent from outer space

[meddy]

I know this is a late response, but how are you having difficulty with keeping the selector pin in? It's never been too challenging on my glock...

Sent from outer space

donno why but it seems to depend on what the gun feels like being evil about on the day. for when i use it its fine maybe a little lose or something elce will play up (like the hop) but when i lend it out i have no idea what they do to it but it tends to come back very loose and sometimes gone XD or some other problem.

usual airsoft monkey magic problems i guess. or i tinker with them too much.

[Scottiee]

Re: KWA g18 fire selector stuck on full auto and safe

Got a problem with mine, the grub screw won't tighten down, just keeps turning when it gets to the bottom, I'm assuming the thread in the slide is stripped :-(

[meddy]

Got a problem with mine, the grub screw won't tighten down, just keeps turning when it gets to the bottom, I'm assuming the thread in the slide is stripped :-(

ok then.
how long is the grub screw? (i ask as all the grub screws i have are slightly diffrent lengths)
is the pin intact?
is it a stock slide?
have you/previous owner used thead lock on it befor?

[Scottiee]

Re: KWA g18 fire selector stuck on full auto and safe

The grub screw is 9.83mm long

Stock slide etc
I tried an M2 cap head bolt and that goes in and locks tight in the slide so it must be the grub screw at fault. I had assumed the thread in the slide would be stripped (steel grub screw versus alloy slide the slide thread would strip every time if over tightened).
The cap head is to short to be of any use though and the head stops the sight sliding back on so need to source a new grub screw from somewhere or use one of the fixes above

[meddy]

Re: KWA g18 fire selector stuck on full auto and safe

well without replacing the slide. you could, re-tapping to a bigger thread and getting a matching grub screw.

or you could grab a bolt that fits in the rear pin hole, optionally you can file the head down a bit to fit in the recess and just screw it into the back instead.

[dave38x]

Just buy some new grub screws off eBay? They will be readily available

Sent from outer space

[Scottiee]

Re: KWA g18 fire selector stuck on full auto and safe

Fleabay to the rescue, just bought 4 of them!