Daytona or GBBR?

[Digital]

Hi Guys,

I recently finished my HPA rifle which is designed for performance. This project has taken several years, so I am extremely pleased.
I would like a new rifle (I only have the one!) and I would like it to focus on realism and just be a really nice rifle for immersion. Obviously I would want it HPA so now my big dilemma is whether to go G&P Woc GBBR (open bolt) or Daytona. I really like the realism of the Woc, but the recoil of the Daytona looks insane.

I don't really think anyone could decide for me, so what would you choose? Has anyone had any experience with either system? Are the heavy recoil kits for the WOC bring it anywhere near the Daytona's?

Thanks, any help will be appreciated!

Regards,

Digital

[Proffrink]

Re: Daytona or GBBR?

I've owned a G&P WOC and I own a Daytona M249 - I'd go for the M249 any day of the week.

In terms of 'realism', you do know that the DG M4 kit can fit into the WOC anyway, right? You're looking at a lot more money - set a budget of about £700-800 if you're including the gun, kit and everything else minus the line and regulator. With a correctly shimmed catch, one can also get it to lock back when the magazine is empty.

One other thing: They chew up air very quickly. Invest in a 4500 tank and regulator as well as a wide bore line if possible. Firebase have a new regulator coming out in January/February so if you only have an SLP then it may be worth waiting.

[Digital]

Re: Daytona or GBBR?

Thanks for the great info, I didn't know they eat air like anything. I am actually in contact with one of the Guys behind DG, as I was asking what parts I need other than the kit. This way I can save a fair chunk of money by only buying things like a G&P GBBR Body and buffer second hand (and obviously other things like a pistol grip and (thanks to you on a previous post) a real steel optic).

Thanks for the PM too. That's great help! I guess I just really like the way a WOC strips down and the realism of the bolt assembly. I also don't own any milling equipment and I have heard that it might need metal work; though I don't know if that is a little filing or trying to lathe the cylinder :P.

I own a 3000psi tank (I have a Din to HPA adapter) and 6mm line however the tank expires soon and the wider line shouldn't be a problem to buy. Although I wouldn't really appreciate trying to lug around that massive tank when I use my DMR setup on my current M4 :/. (Your AFUK topic is really helpful!)

That warrior cargo pack looks great, thanks, just in time as well; I was about to get a tiny hydration pack for my current tanks.

If I do go for daytona, I would be sure to get another R-Hopped Edgi from Sam at Kingdom of Airsoft; I really recommend him!

I am really looking for a high rate of fire build and daytona looks great. My SPR/DMR is locked to semi because of the mancraft engine and I am starting to miss it!

Is the bolt catch shimming hard? I really would find locking back on the last shot a big aspect. Honestly I may just build a woc but buy two bodies and buffers so I can interchange between it and daytona.

Sorry for blabbing on, your help is really appreciated!

[Proffrink]

Re: Daytona or GBBR?

I'm guessing you're talking about Tony Rizzo - he is DG at this point as their primary distributor, but the kits are made in Asia.

As far as work on the M4, I believe it's just a case of drilling a hole (but don't quote me on that). The bolt for the DG is obviously completely different and doesn't look quite as realistic as the original WOC ones (it's an anodised aluminium and brass affair).

You will want at least a 50+ci 4500psi tank or maybe two average sized 3000psi tanks. The M4 is more efficient than the M249 but it's still 3-4 times more needy than a solenoid engine.

R-Hopping - you want a lube-resistant patch rather than the stock HSA ones. The Facebook Daytona group has the link and I'm importing some. I'd be happy to send you a length. R-Hopping is straight forward though and I'm not sure why people outsource the work; you should try for yourself. Also bear in mind that during the break in about the first 4000 rounds are for the original rubber buckings, then the next 6000 (for a total of 10000) is to get a good fit between the internals. The tolerances aren't perfect so to get a good fit those first 10k shots need to be done. You kind of avoid the bucking break-in if you use an R-Hop, but equally the mechanical break-in is somewhat violent for the first few thousand rounds and is known to break people's buckings and tear patches. As such, you can get away with using the normal bucking at first during the break-in, then applying the patch later. If you apply the patch at the very beginning then there is a chance of it getting torn quite quickly. It's advised to run with no hop at all (i.e. with it turned off) for the first few thousand then dial it in slowly.

DGs don't have a high ROF like solenoid engines do, but they are up there for a blow back rifle. ~12-18rps depending on the setup.

Not sure on the bolt catch shimming - seems to depend on the magazine. If possible, get yourself on the Daytona Facebook group as they know far more than I (especially when it comes to the M4).

[Digital]

Re: Daytona or GBBR?

You will want at least a 50+ci 4500psi tank or maybe two average sized 3000psi tanks.

I actually do have 2 3000psi tanks, for the main reason that it costs £5 in petrol + £2 each to get them refilled :/

I'd be happy to send you a length.

That'd be great; thanks very much! But I'd make sure I would like to go Daytona first.

R-Hopping is straight forward though and I'm not sure why people outsource the work; you should try for yourself.

Erm. Yea. About that. Didn't go so well. I may or may not have glued the HSA R-hop bore aid into the bore. Yea.
Although to be fair that was a while ago, and my barrel was really bad one I got for free so I wasn't trying to do it perfectly.

Hmm. Still completely in two minds about this or a GBBR with a heavy recoil kit.

Thanks yet again for the great help!

[Proffrink]

Re: Daytona or GBBR?

You're welcome.

I had an M4 DMR-type build with all the bells and whistles and I think I'd go with DG if I were to do it again. It was fun, but if you already have the regulator and tanks then it makes sense just to go with the DG.