Introduction and advice.

[t0astie]

Hi guys I'm new to airsoft and the forums! Thought I'd say hi before I bombard you with questions.

Now that that's over :P

Anyone know where I could possibly get a H nub from? Can't find them on the website, if I phone zero one will they stock them? My rounds seem to be breaking right, I assume thisis because I haven't seated the nub correctly, but I understand an H nub prevents this?

I have just installed a type o cylinder and 455mm systema tight bore in a p90 with a m100 spring which I did earlier. But I am having a sealing issue in my cylinder from a too tight o ring (I think) But have been told that the piston head is of the incorrect type (I have a silent piston head but guarder cylinder head) would it be easier to (I presume) buy a new flat type piston and ask for some different size orings to experiment, or better to just get the o rings and save the money? After installing the extended barrel I am still not getting anywhere near the range I want, but I presume this is because of my slack hoop (hehe) I am running massively under power? Would this assumption be correct? If so or not would an upgrade to a m110 or m120 spring be required to gain that extra range? (using .25)

Sorry for the first post filled with fail, I didn't post this in technical because I am a newbie and these questions are pretty newbish I think.

Thanks

[t0astie]

Re: Introduction and advice.

Can I just add as well, that I bought steel bushings, but prefer the low resistance of the poly carbonate ones. How fast do they wear? Because if they just need changing every so often I may sticki with poly carbonate and just change them when servicing my gun. The metal ones obviously have no give in them, I get the feeling they will wear my gears and give a higher resistance thus creating slower rate of fire and more noise. As such I still have the stock TM bushings in. Does anyone know where I can get kevlar/teflon composite bushings from? I presume they would be the best material for what I want to do.

[jagillham]

Re: Introduction and advice.

Morning!

Most people go for metal brushings, so I'd be inclined to follow the crowd on that one.

With a longer barrel, you'll need a matching capacity piston & cylinder to push the more air required through. If anything, a longer barrel will decrease range. Again the power will make very little difference. Be warned that a M110 or M120 spring will make your gun unusual on most sites due to power restrictions.

You should be running at 350fps with that M100, and that is as far as you can go. Range is through a decent hopup set correctly, the P90 is a very good unit. Look around for nubs (we are not allowed to mention anyone apart from Z1 here!). From there on it is just a question of playing with the hop up until you find that sweet spot where it glides slightly up, then down, but keeps in the air for ages.

[t0astie]

Re: Introduction and advice.

yeah thanks for that it's pretty much what I thought. The cylinder I have already changed to a type 0 for the increase in barrel length, also the barrel is a tight bore. I was under the impression that this would increase the range as I would get more energy (not fps) as the projectile is getting it's power for longer (newtonian physics! something to do with momentum and inertia, I koind of blacked out after that) I was not aware I needed a new piston for a 455mm barrel? I thought these were needed when you got to around 600 and the 2nd stroke of the piston will be pulling air back in before the projectile has left? (Bore up?) Clarification on this would be great!

My site is wierd in that on member days they allow over 350 as long as everyone is ok with it, and due to the p90 dissasembly taking precisely 4 seconds it won't be much of an issue to swap between a slightly stronger spring for those days to get the extra range (we all know each other so it would be an agreement to increase minumum engagement range) I won't want to do it to hurt people just to get that extra range you see. Also means my springs can decompress and rest.

I have found an element H nub on the bay, so I'll give that a go as well. Thanks again! Let's hope it all goes together this time!

I think I am going to get some kevlar bushings made up for me, my friend has a workshop where they can make suspension bushings for cars, these are often poly carbonate, the stresses they take is phenominal, so if I can get something like that in place of the stock ones I can have the best of both worlds. (I really don't like the idea of metal rubbing on metal!)

[richard murray]

Re: Introduction and advice.

455mm is the standard inner barrel length for m4s, you dont need a new piston (unless you are trying to run a 'hot' spring).
For this length of barrel the ideal cylinder hole will be at 3/4 (full cylinder for longer barrels), M120 should be arround 380-390, next level up would be m120s (if you are using systema)

Sounds like a good idea agreeing the limit (as it would stop players sneaking in hot guns)

if you are worried about metal/metal contact you could use ballbearing bushings

Might be worth considering using .25g bbs this should give a longer straight flight before the hop kicks in.

[t0astie]

Re: Introduction and advice.

cool I'll check out those bearing bushes, they may be just what I am looking for!

I already have a full cylinder fitted, so I will try that for a while and if it gives me the dry firing sound then I know that the bb has left the gun before the end of the piston cycle is that right? If so I will try the 3/4 cylinder (type 1?) though a friend of mine is convinced I need a type 0 for 455mm barrel. (was on type 2 with a 267 ((I think))mm)

I have decided to go with the 110sp spring to see if I can keep it barely legal. My site will obviously kick you out for firing a 380 gun full auto at some kids face. It's all about being responsible, there are people there with incredibly hot guns, but you more often get shot with their secondary as they close the distance. If your an idiot then you shouldn't be playing airsoft anyway! Does anyone know a quick test without a chrono? I mean will it go through the bottom of a tin can at x fps?

Thanks again, I'll check out the ball bearing bushes cheers!