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  • Which batteries?

    Hello all.

    just managed to lay my hands on an ICS L85A2 and im just after getting a couple of extra batteries for it. ive currently got a mini type battery in it and was wondering if someone would be able to shed some light on what battery would fit into this.

  • #2
    Re: Which batteries?

    i have a ARMY R85, mini's do for me either 8.4 or 9.6 around 2000/3000 mAh, but you can get custom ones for £30+ mainly 8.6's i believe

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    • #3
      Re: Which batteries?

      If i were you I'd invest in a lipo, 7.4v, as it will actually give the gun a decent rate of fire and will last all day.

      or if you really want to get it going get an 11.1v, as its ICS it should be able to handle it.

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      • #4
        Re: Which batteries?

        Originally posted by cornishpotshot View Post
        If i were you I'd invest in a lipo, 7.4v, as it will actually give the gun a decent rate of fire and will last all day.

        or if you really want to get it going get an 11.1v, as its ICS it should be able to handle it.
        ..but consider that they aren't as safe as normal Ni-MH batteries.

        Also, I don't understand the God-like appreciation given to ICS on this forum - they are at best still a little bit worse than Classic Army. I wouldn't trust a stock ICS with a mad voltage battery - something will die.

        And remember, even if you had full Systema parts inside, if it isn't shimmed correctly then a high voltage battery for a high ROF will most certainly kill everything. Also, ICS use split gearboxes, and a split design will NEVER run as reliably as a normal gearbox. Consider that too.

        My advice, get a couple of 9.6 minis, fit the whole thing and both batteries Deans connectors and you will be sorted. I don't understand why anyone ever thinks they need more than that...
        Formerly 'Waltzinblack' but thought it was time to incorporate my Team callsign into my name

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        • #5
          Re: Which batteries?

          Originally posted by waltzinblack View Post
          My advice, get a couple of 9.6 minis, fit the whole thing and both batteries Deans connectors and you will be sorted. I don't understand why anyone ever thinks they need more than that...
          true that, a 9.6 does me fine!

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          • #6
            Re: Which batteries?

            do consider 7.4 lipos easy to fit and are unlikely to make your gun die also it is only if you are monumentally careless that you should have problems

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            • #7
              Re: Which batteries?

              But why get a Lipo that has MORE chance of blowing up and burning down your house when uou could just get a Ni-MH to do the same job? You might say because it will 'last all day', but I've had a 1400mAh in my RPK and that's done nearly 2 drum mags.

              A 1400mAh. ~3500rds. Tell me why I'd need a Lipo to last me all day? lol
              Formerly 'Waltzinblack' but thought it was time to incorporate my Team callsign into my name

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              • #8
                Re: Which batteries?

                Originally posted by waltzinblack View Post
                ..but consider that they aren't as safe as normal Ni-MH batteries.

                Also, I don't understand the God-like appreciation given to ICS on this forum - they are at best still a little bit worse than Classic Army. I wouldn't trust a stock ICS with a mad voltage battery - something will die.

                And remember, even if you had full Systema parts inside, if it isn't shimmed correctly then a high voltage battery for a high ROF will most certainly kill everything. Also, ICS use split gearboxes, and a split design will NEVER run as reliably as a normal gearbox. Consider that too.

                My advice, get a couple of 9.6 minis, fit the whole thing and both batteries Deans connectors and you will be sorted. I don't understand why anyone ever thinks they need more than that...
                Lipos are every bit as safe as long as they are not abused, there is this whole "lipos are going to kill your dog and rape your children" daily mail-esque aversion to them.

                The split gearboxes are the same as normal ones, except they are easier to maintain - and does the l85 actually have one, i thought it was only the m4s

                The rate of fire on an ICS running an 11.1 isnt all that great actually, but an ICS will take it, they come with metal gears as standard, and also one of the strongest stock gearboxes.

                Oh and I've seen more CA lemons than ICS lemons.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Which batteries?

                  To paraphrase someone from another forum, and to share my own sentiment:

                  Lipos are idiot proof. I know this because I use them. 11.1v lipo in my ICS M4 for ~10 000rds so far, 7.4v 2800mah for at least another 10 000 before that, using the cheapest charger available, no mosfet, still using tamiyas (I hate soldering mkay?) no fire-proof battery bag, nothing. Has my house burnt down? no.

                  Lipos are not dangerous. Even if you are an idiot (which I am) and spend hardly any money (£5 charger, £11 11.1v battery - done).

                  Just to see what would happen, I dumped 1000rds through my M4 without letting off the trigger, save to change mags. Took less than a minute. The 11.1v has some stupidly thin 18 or 20 guage wiring. Did my gun set on fire? no Did my fuse blow? no What happened? The tamiya connectors got a little bit warm.

                  In an actual skirmish, I'm unlikely to go through more than 1000rds the entire day.
                  Conclusion: Lipos are idiot proof

                  (disclaimer: don't blame me if you burn down your house with lipos :p )
                  feedback: http://www.zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?t=15176

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Which batteries?

                    The only reason for a lipo to explode would be if you pierced it.

                    Which would be bl**dy stupid to do with any battery.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Which batteries?

                      OK, even if I did believe most of that. Tell me why to get a Lipo instead of a Ni-MH.

                      AND A SPLIT GEARBOX WILL NEVER BE AS REALIABLE AS A FULL GEARBOX. THERE IS NO WAY.

                      Go and get two halves of the same engine and replace the one in your car with the two halves connected up. Yeah.
                      Formerly 'Waltzinblack' but thought it was time to incorporate my Team callsign into my name

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                      • #12
                        Re: Which batteries?

                        AEG gearboxes are not engines...

                        I couldn't give a toss if you got lipos or stay in the dark ages with nimhs. Ain't no concern of mine.

                        I have no idea why you consider split gearboxes to be less reliable than standard gearboxes. I can't see any reason for this?

                        With as little offence intended as possible, you seem like a bit of an idiot yourself.
                        feedback: http://www.zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?t=15176

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Which batteries?

                          Ni-cad batteries are the dark ages!

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                          • #14
                            Re: Which batteries?

                            All the same to me
                            feedback: http://www.zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?t=15176

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Which batteries?

                              waltzinblack, have you even seen one of the split gearboxes?..........Probably not.

                              If you had, you would have seen the build quality, and realise that all you claims are founded on absolutly nothing other than an over inflated ego.

                              Lipos provide better rates of fire, are lighter, last longer and are cheaper - £25 for a really decent 11.1v. £30/35 for a really decent Ni-MH 8.4v. And both will last pretty much the same amount of time.
                              Last edited by cornishpotshot; 22 May, 2010, 23:35. Reason: 'cos I can't spell for sh*t

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