M14 Variants.

[GiantKiwi]

Re: M14 Variants.

LOL.....just lol.

Hey, at least being compared to JS means I can get away with lack of beard growth :P

[sean_waller]

Re: M14 Variants.

Hey, at least being compared to JS means I can get away with lack of beard growth :P

Life is boring without the operator beard

[Mango]

Re: M14 Variants.

Life is boring without the operator beard

I heard they were bullet proof

[GiantKiwi]

Re: M14 Variants.



Tango Down Rail Covers, G&P Low Profile Mount Base and ACS Stock arrived this week Which means I could finally move the scope back into a reasonable position. Externally that's it parts wise. Next is to dust it

[Coski]

Re: M14 Variants.

MUCH better! Ive bought the same scope for my EBR. They just look so perfect on them. I was going to put a CTR stock on mine, but now Im thinking ACS looks really nice!

[Delta]

Re: M14 Variants.

The ACS stocks are the perfect combination of a crane stock and a MOE stock in my opinion. They're so comfy! I have an ACS-L which doesn't have the battery compartments and is more slimline. Fantastic bit of kit!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

[GiantKiwi]

Re: M14 Variants.

Only downside to the ACS is it isn't compatible with the CTR/MOE Cheek riser, but closed cell foam and hockey tape will be rectifying that issue for me.

[GiantKiwi]

Re: M14 Variants.

MUCH better! Ive bought the same scope for my EBR. They just look so perfect on them. I was going to put a CTR stock on mine, but now Im thinking ACS looks really nice!

Got my ACS off mrpugster for £20, think he might still have one left.

[Oslo]

Re: M14 Variants.

Ok, not an EBR, but something a little more old school...G&G SOC 16, wooden stock sanded, stained and oiled

[PureSilver]

Re: M14 Variants.

Any tips on the stock? I'm preparing to sand back the (walnut) stock of my G&G GR14 and oil it with BLO, and would appreciate any advice you have to offer!

[Oslo]

Re: M14 Variants.

Sure

Best bit of advice I can give is take your time It's easy to go at it quickly, end up taking off too much wood or rounding an edge and ruining the end effect.

Remove the metalwork apart from the front sling swivel (unless you want to rivet it back on - it all unscrews apart from the U shaped piece at the front which will be a tight fit but isn't glued on or anything. Before starting I'd recommend not doing this in your kitchen as the dust goes everywhere lol and health and safety: definitely wear a dust mask.

I started off using 180 grade wet and dry, the lacquer on these stocks is quite thick and will clog finer paper very quickly. Rub it down until the lacquer is off, you can generally tell as the stock will start to look a bit patchy as the stain underneath starts to come off. At this point, I switched to 320 grade and went over the stock again until all the stain was off. Switched then to 600 and went over the stock gently until it was smooth to the touch. At this point you can tweak the contours a little if you want to, the G&G stock is good but inaccurate in some places.

I then brushed off the worst of the dust and with a very damp cloth (soak the cloth right through then wring it out; should be about right) I wiped down the whole stock, re-wetting the cloth as and when needed. This raises the grain in the wood and it'll feel a bit rough again, then leave the stock to dry overnight at normal room temperature. - 12 hours or so should do. Doing this ensures that the wood stays smooth when its finished off. Sand the stock down again with 600 until smooth and you're happy with the finish then dust it off with a brush and clean cloth and its ready for staining.

The G&G wood (including the Walnut version) stocks are great but often made up from several pieces of wood glued together (I've seen anywhere between 2 - 5) and often the wood is different shades. I use Colron wood stain to equalise the differences, something like 'dark oak' works nicely. If there is a marked difference between bits, I mask along and then sparingly rub in some stain. When this has dried, I gently rub down the stained area to blend it in and by doing this you can get the stock to a roughly uniform colour before the final stain. Again, time spent here by going slowly and being thorough will make the final finish better.

This stock was then stained with Colron 'Medium Oak' and then given a very light coat of 'Mahogany' which I rubbed off as much as possible while damp, then more when it was dried as I wanted just a hint of redwood over the brown, it's still not quite right, but its easy to tweak. By rubbing very gently with 600 grade, you can lighten the stain or remove it until you reach the finish you want. When you've reached this, leave the stock to dry for an hour or so and then its ready for oiling.

I use CCL gunstock conditioning oil, it works really nicely and doesn't feel sticky when its dried. I liberally apply this to the stock with a clean cloth, rubbing it in firmly and then going over it with a dry cloth to remove the residue. (doing this will remove a little of the stain, but that's normal.) I give the stock several coats of oil and then regularly re-oil.

You can get loads of effects with the stain, covering the stock with dark satin and then sanding it off before finishing with a lighter finish will really bring out the grain in the wood, you can also weather it, make it dirtier in some places, more worn in others, much more fun than working with plastic and paint :D

So the best advice again is:

Take your time, not only will you get a better finish, but you'll get a real connection with it that'll make you smile every time you pick it up.

I used:

180, 320 and 600 grade wet and dry emery paper.(doesn't clog as much as sand paper and lasts longer)
Colron wood dye. (personally, 'dark oak'; 'medium oak'; 'mahogany') but there's a whole range of them. Not the cheapest, but certainly one of the best.
CCL gunstock conditioning oil.
clean cloths (preferably lint free and white, as yellow cheap ones can leave fluff and stain as the colour comes out)
dust mask

Think that covers it and hope it helps, if you have any other questions, please feel free to get in touch.

(By the time I finish the stock, I'll have it looking like this):

[BigAl]

Re: M14 Variants.

I assume those Cyma EBR's are front wired from the factory yes? If so what I want to know is how easy would it be to re wire them to the stock tube?

Also is the pistol grip changable for other AR Grips.

[GiantKiwi]

Re: M14 Variants.

I assume those Cyma EBR's are front wired from the factory yes? If so what I want to know is how easy would it be to re wire them to the stock tube?

Also is the pistol grip changable for other AR Grips.

It comes rear wired conveniently. Pistol grips wise, it uses GBBR AR grips.

[kc1990]

Re: M14 Variants.

m141.jpgm142.jpgm143.jpg

[seansamurai1]

Re: M14 Variants.

New scope mount fitted for the lower profile.