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Bachelarius
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Aug 2009
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#16
4 July, 2012, 09:38
Re: Billy Breach Mosfet Review
Originally posted by
ElZer0
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I've heard there is something to do with the micro switches causes problems.
What make is your scar? I trying to work out if I can get one in my vfc once my new stock turns up
Yeah, micro switches ARE a problem, the vibration of a rifle during cycling makes it jump about from on to off. As you can imagine, with something like a breaking mosfet, this creates a tonne of heat and premature motor wear from it stalling mid cycle. Same for smart mosfets, makes them jutter and get confused with timings and starts and ends of a cylce due to the many on-offs happening. Plain mosfets don't care though, they can be switched on and off far faster than the vibrations, so at worst they may show a little extra heat. If you look inside the microswitch you will see that it is still just a switch and that's what the mosfet will treat it as.
Good luck with the VFC, that thing's notorious for being hard to wire any mosfet into.
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dave38x
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#17
28 September, 2012, 13:33
Re: Billy Breach Mosfet Review
Forgive me for asking, but I am a complete mosfet noob - how does a single signal wire to the switch work? What do you solder the other contact on the switch to???
Also - is there any way to fit this in a gun and still have a stock tube lipo? My gun is a rear-wired M4 (g&g/jg)
Last edited by
dave38x
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28 September, 2012, 13:38
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Shadow Stalkers Airsoft Team
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Bachelarius
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#18
28 September, 2012, 14:01
Re: Billy Breach Mosfet Review
Hi Dave,
Technically there are still 2 wires that go to the switch, just one of them is the Red or Positive wire. In essence it's exactly the same wiring as the regular 2 signal wire setup (2 to the contacts and 2 to the motor) but instead of the positive wire going straight to the motor, it has the switch block form a T junction. So the switch block itself almost is the 2nd signal wire, if that makes any sense at all :/
Like I said in the review, it's a little more prone to motor noise up there rather than further back in the mosfet, but it saves a wire and is a lot easier to use with front-wired setups.
As for still keeping it wired to the stock tube, I'm afraid not easily. You would have to double wire it:
i.e.run wires from the rear through the gearbox to the front, where the mosfet sits, then back again :S but that would lose any gains you may get from rear wiring - i.e. quick upper and lower disconnect. You would have to use thin wires in order to fit it all in, can't say how thin as I've never tried it! :S
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dave38x
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#19
1 October, 2012, 02:23
Re: Billy Breach Mosfet Review
Thats perfectly clear, thanks very much mate! May investigate the following:
a) A crane stock
b) Never collapse my stock when there is a battery in it (makes the most sense to my mind, I play with it fully out anyway
c) Acquire a UBR (mosfet in the little pocket on the stock, battery in tube)
d) Spend an evening with mr dremel hollowing out a space behind my GB/up into the stock tube :P
I definitely intend to get one of these kits though (when ive switched to a high torque motor and 9.9 LiFes
Shadow Stalkers Airsoft Team
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eatthis
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#20
1 October, 2012, 09:48
Re: Billy Breach Mosfet Review
just bought 1 and if its good il buy more
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simuk
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#21
9 October, 2012, 23:26
Re: Billy Breach Mosfet Review
I have now burnt two of these out, both initialy worked fine. Alas it could have been a short as i found some broken silicone tubing near the motor spade connectors. It's also possible that the new gear set i used was badly shimmed and caused to much friction. Then again it could have been the crappy old firefox 9 cell himh battery that i tried before i realised it was useless and did not have enough power to trun the motor over (i have read that low power batteries are bad for mosfets). I am not trying to put anybody off here infact i have ordered another mosfet from Billy as the problem is me not the mosfet.
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