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ARES G36C replacement gearbox
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markz86
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#1
ARES G36C replacement gearbox
9 April, 2013, 16:08
Hello,
Just wondering if anyone can help me on this. I'd like to get myself a G36C, I'd like a reliable gun but don't want to spend £400+ on a TM recoil shock variant. Since the Original TM G36C seems to be out of stock everywhere (Discontinued?) i plan on getting an Ares / Umarex G36C and replace the gearbox with a fully TM compatible V3 gearbox. I plan on running with a 7.4V lipo at 340-350 FPS
Firstly, is what i'm suggesting possible? - i know the ARES gearbox has proprietary parts, so i'm not sure if others will fit.
Secondly, if it is possible which brand should i go with? can you still buy complete TM gearboxes?
FYI, i also plan to install a 6.03 barrel, Prowin hop chamber, SCS nub and systema bucking (also toying with R-Hop). I have not considered replacing individual components in the ARES gearbox as the sping guide + trigger mech / microswitch cannot be replaced with more hard wearing parts and from what i have read, these parts tend to fail.
Thanks in advance.
crasstoe
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#2
9 April, 2013, 16:13
Re: ARES G36C replacement gearbox
I have the ARES (UMAREX) G36 and it's a great runner.
I have heard of JG and TM boxes being dropped in with minor modifications to the outside of the box (if any in some cases, it seems to vary).
AFAIK the spring guide is the only proprietary part but I do not know that for certain.
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markz86
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#3
9 April, 2013, 16:29
Re: ARES G36C replacement gearbox
Thanks for the reply crasstoe, perhaps the horror stories that i read were of the previous version? (******* an the like list the ARES G36C as New version). I suppose if they have reduced the number of proprietary parts to the spring guide, then replacing broken parts down the road shouldn't be difficult.
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crasstoe
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#4
9 April, 2013, 16:31
Re: ARES G36C replacement gearbox
I'm running 9.6v NiMH at 345fps with no issues. I was using a 10.8v battery pack at one point too and it is still going strong, blowback never disabled.
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lewbad
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#5
9 April, 2013, 17:19
Re: ARES G36C replacement gearbox
i have a clasic army g36C and love it , i would recomend that too ,
blow back never disabled also , and im running 7.4V lipo's 2200mAh
very good guns G36!!
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johnnyj
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#6
9 April, 2013, 21:33
Re: ARES G36C replacement gearbox
take care with a umarex G36 most are now S&T models and pants vs the real ares model
your hop set up sounds ok , most ares g36's i have had just needed a good reshim lubing and they was ready to go again , a week area is the piston head as its very prone to cracking
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ActionNeil
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#7
10 April, 2013, 12:02
Re: ARES G36C replacement gearbox
Reshim, relube and sorbo the ares gearbox and fit a non AB mosfet and you'll have a perfectly good gearbox that will last forever. The mosfet will protect the microswitch.
The ares gearbox is worth keeping because you can quickly change springs. Can't do that on a TM.
Avoid the prowin chamber unless you don't mind constant jams, or have the tools and patience to modify it til it works.
Definitely fit an rhop. You can use whatever bucking you like then, just sand the lump off the inside of the stock one, it'll work as well as any other.
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crasstoe
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#8
10 April, 2013, 12:05
Re: ARES G36C replacement gearbox
The 5KU CNC Hop is top notch with a 6.03 TBB
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Ells
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#9
10 April, 2013, 12:45
Re: ARES G36C replacement gearbox
If it is not to late, If i were you, speaking from experience would get a CA. (this is NBB though, so not sure if relevant to you), found just a nromal hop TBB and tm rubber worked fine. AFAIS upgrading hop chamber wouldnt really be worth the money
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Bachelarius
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#10
10 April, 2013, 13:37
Re: ARES G36C replacement gearbox
I'd personally take this project in stages, starting from vital fixes and preventative measures. As with all things airsoft, there are a lot of opinions floating around. I can only offer something slightly better than that, which is personal experience of 2 Ares G36 failures and how to prevent them.
Both failures that I have seen have actually been caused by the piston head exploding and the o-ring losing its seal. The first one was lucky and was caught as soon as it happened. The second, less so and lead to a gearbox case failure.
What happened:
First the piston head cracked and the oring got torn in half. This meant that the air seal was completely shot and any damping properties it used to provide instantly vanished.
After more use on the 2nd rifle, this lead to the increased force being exerted on the gearbox case, which really couldn't handle it.
The gearbox case cracked in two places and was rendered unusable.
What I learned from this:
The stock piston head on the ares is useless. Swap it out.
The stress caused by lack of air seal should not break the case. This implies that either the case is either poorly designed or made of monkey metal.
Outcomes and preventative measures:
Sorbothane pads are a necessity on this rifle (and after a bit of reading, pretty much all Ares made/based rifles, including the Masada and probably the new PDR)
Lightening the piston assembly will help matters also, so swiss cheesing is a good idea.
Also
radius the front of your cylinder window
As you are fitting sorbothane, grab the chance to set the angle of engagement (AoE).
*
Note, when correcting AoE on Ares blowback AEGs, this actually affects the resting position of the bolt as well, so if this bothers you, remove some material from the top-rear of the piston, where the bolt hooks on.
Some other notes, unrelated to the above:
The micro-switch is only rated for ~15A - Fitting a basic switching mosfet will alleviate the wear from it.
The micro-switch contact force is very weak and leads to bouncing issues - This means that you simply cannot fit an active braking mosfet or any 'smart' mosfets which do not specifically state that they implement a de-bouncing feature to the rifle without risking the mosfet overheating and failing.
Here is a very good, succinct explanation
of why microswitches suck and how to fix them and
some research
which this is based on.
Ares motors are probably some of the worst I have ever worked with and are not only a bit weedy, but tend to burn out on even light setups (7.4v lipo, 20c). Switching it out for any Neodymium based motor is a very good idea.
I would say, do all of that BEFORE you do anything else or worry about upgrading the accuracy. As soon as you start messing with the accuracy, you will start introducing various odd issues which you will need to deal with, and it's important to be working on a stable system, when dealing with upgrades.
BUT, as soon as you apply those fixes, which aren't actually all that hard or expensive to do and I tend to do to all of my rifles regardless of make, you will have a solid platform with the externals of an ares and the QD spring guide, which are 2 great features of an ares, which you can't get anywhere else.
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crasstoe
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#11
10 April, 2013, 13:39
Re: ARES G36C replacement gearbox
Ah forgot to mention the motor! Replace immediately lol
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WTP_Trust_ME
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#12
10 April, 2013, 17:40
Re: ARES G36C replacement gearbox
I'm gonna go out on a limb here - but you could do a lot worse than the SRC genIII - I was always impressed with the build quality, and the externals were on par to that of my CA.
Ca are ok but the quality is a bit outdated now.
Oh and they all use standard V3 parts
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markz86
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#13
10 April, 2013, 18:42
Re: ARES G36C replacement gearbox
Thanks for all of your comments, I would not be against going for a CA or SRC but they seem to be out of stock everywhere and have been for a while, I will start off by replacing the parts that have been mentioned here, i will also be disabling the blowback.
By the sounds of it they are mostly simple fixes so it should not be too difficult.
Thanks
Mark
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cyberi4n
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#14
11 January, 2014, 19:22
Re: ARES G36C replacement gearbox
Having been out of the upgrade game for yonks can you recommend a decent piston head, piston and motor for a standard 7.4v lipo setup? I've no idea about brands these days. What are Lonex parts like?
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WE G39C GBB | ARES G36K EBB
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Mickydoos
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#15
11 January, 2014, 20:14
Re: ARES G36C replacement gearbox
Though unrelated to the topic at hand, there's no point making a new thread here. Piston + piston head = SHS blue for 7 steel tooth or green for 1 steel tooth. You'll only really need more than one steel tooth if you're running a high speed (therefore high wear) setup. Motor SHS High torque or Lonex A1 or A2 (Lonex are better)
Lonex parts are very good, especially their motors.
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