Fixing the Angle of Engagement - help needed

[Joris]

Continuing from this thread: http://forums.zeroin.co.uk/showthrea...35#post1173235

Dear Airsofters

I am trying to fix the AOE on my King arms Colt M4a1 AEG.
At the store i found a rubber ring that line's perfectly.


As you can see the AOE is pretty good with the sorbo pad and the SHS piston (TT0035 SHS/SUPER SHOOTER)


Only i was wondering if it better to glue the rubber pad to the piston nozzle.

Or to srew it behind the pistonhead. like this:


Is one method better than the other? if so please explain.

Also thanks for the other thread, it really help me out so far!

Greetings Joris

[a_flea]

Re: Fixing the Angle of Engagement - help needed

Always the back of the cylinder head. You could space the piston head off with a full width metal shim, but there really is very little adjustment and you risk making the piston-to-piston head connection being weaker which can start loosening; sorbo on the back of the cylinder head is standard practice...

Plus your AOE is a tiny bit over corrected in the first pic (you'll need to remove that tooth as well), but this should be fine once under load...

Attach the sorbo, then put it all together with spring and then see what it looks like...

EDIT: I see you have a full steel toothed piston, so you'd better be completely happy before you spark it up or all you'll hear is......... KERSPANG...... and then the sound of you crying... No one can give you the final go-ahead, no matter how detailed your pictures...

[dave38x]

Re: Fixing the Angle of Engagement - help needed

You'll need to grind away the 2nd and potentially a chunk of the third tooth there.

I'd say the AoE is spot on there

[North West Outpost]

Re: Fixing the Angle of Engagement - help needed

I would say it is deffo near enough for a metal tooth piston.

That looks like a tap washer......If you add it you need as said to add it to the cylinder head, but you need to make sure the hole in the middle does not restrict air flow as it looks a little small. You also need to watch out if it is as hard as a tap washer if you glue it onto the cylinder head you will loose any give in the existing pad.

The gap looks to be less than 3mm, so maybe just a couple of the neoprene washers some people sell may be enough and will still give some play.

Then when you bond it you need to twiddle the gears to see which teeth need removing or they will jam and there will be tears.

[Joris]

Re: Fixing the Angle of Engagement - help needed

The gap looks to be less than 3mm,

It is i am sanding it down so it fit flush with the diameter of the airnozzle

[North West Outpost]

Re: Fixing the Angle of Engagement - help needed

And the outer diameter same as the softer pad on the cylinder head.

Make sure you use a Cyanoacrylate glue. ie superglue.

[sj_asc]

Re: Fixing the Angle of Engagement - help needed

The spacer can work nicely on the piston assembly, you just need to make sure that you have an extended screw and will need to fabricate a supporting collar to ensure it it secured in place. The spacer is additional weight and should ideally be on the cylinder head, but in a lot of cases the Cylinder head has an inner taper making gluing the spacer/buffer pad a less reliable option.
I have never had any problems with using a spacer on the piston, just ensure that is it tightly secured. Tap washers are fine, but for the sake of weight avoid the metal washers

[Joris]

Re: Fixing the Angle of Engagement - help needed

Update:

Removed the old rubber from the air nozzle


Next up is the rubber, I've grinded the outer and inner rim of the rubber pad.

You can see that it has a larger inner diameter than the original rubber.




These are the images how the normal rubber would sit down the cilinder

As you may or may not see it sits pretty flush with the brass cilinder as it has the same size as the pistonhead.
Do i have to grind the second rubber down on the outer diamater or not?

You can see it fits really nicely

Cheers for sticking with me so far

Joris