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Nick87
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Join Date:
May 2013
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14
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#1
R-Hop advice
2 May, 2014, 12:45
Hello Chaps
I'd like to get some pointers with regard to my new R-hop installation.
Firstly, after installing the curved hop piece and the square 'M' nub, there is way too much hop being applied. Would it be better to remove material from the nub, or sand down the inside radius of the R-hop?
I have not glued the hop into the barrel or anything, as the bucking seemed to retain it quite well and I figured this would be good for maintenance purposes. Is this a bad idea? The bucking is madbul blue at the moment. I tried using a guarder clear (soft) bucking initially, but the thing sort of fell apart when I filed down the little lump bit inside, so went with harder material. Gun is a G&P sentry with original gear set and motor, but upgraded compression parts, re-shimmed and ceramic bearings.
Are there any other things I should try and advice you can give to help overall performance in this set up? Doesn't have to be related to the hop exactly. One other thing I intend to try is Teflon taping to get a better air seal. My chrono arrived yesterday, so I will test before and after adding tape to see if it increases consistency.
Look forward to hearing from you
Nick
danhc
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#2
2 May, 2014, 12:56
Re: R-Hop advice
Have you tried shooting it without the m nub installed?
PM me if you're looking for S-ARMS M4 mags
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Richard_severn
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#3
2 May, 2014, 15:10
Re: R-Hop advice
If you put a bb in the barrel with no hop applied does the bb pass through? If so the inner diameter is correct. Did you file or sand the inner surface. For the outside diameter you want it flush with the barrel I find a razor blade to start with then sand paper with a drop of silicon oil works well.
You said about the Teflon tape mod that doesn't work as well as dental floss whipped around tightly and then a few drops of superglue to stop it getting torn.
I would glue the rhop in place with a few drops of superglue as if it does move it could affect your shots people also use silicone sealant before putting on the bucking but I haven't had good results from doing that.
Yes you can cut it sand down the m nub I used a scalpel to cut slivers off until it was off with no hop applied.
I have also used a bit off soft pencil rubber for my l96 and it's 500 fps so I was getting poor results with the m nub
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Nick87
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May 2013
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#4
2 May, 2014, 20:04
Re: R-Hop advice
Hi Guys
Thanks for the replies. I have not tried it without the nub installed, as it needs this element right, to apply even pressure on the Hop. The BB does current pass through but it's overly 'hopped' in the lowest position, I jammed it when adding more, whoops. I will cut down with a sharp knife as you said, was unsure about altering the inner radius of the hop as saw on a youtube video. Will glue down the Hop as you recomend, but with something relatively weak, as I'd like to be able to change things at some point. You used a pencil rubber, how resourceful : )
Not heard of the dental floss thing, I might try to find a tutorial about it. Teflon was cheap from ebay so though I could try it during my strip down. Not gona mess about with special glues on the bucking, straight up silicon oil for lube will do for me.
Final pieces to be put together tomorrow and hopefully, it'll be somewhat beasty for my game Sunday. I play at Absolute in Berkshire if you guys are from around here?
Regards
Nick
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sparrowhawk
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#5
3 May, 2014, 00:35
Re: R-Hop advice
what weight bbs are you using?
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Nick87
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#6
3 May, 2014, 20:22
Re: R-Hop advice
Hi
I removed some of the nub and did a little more sanding with the dremmel to get the inside of the Hop to match the radius of barrel more closely. The amount of hop is now ok, but the BB's are not going straight.... Range has definitely increased but the accuracy is way off, with shots going left and right randomly. BB's being used were 0.25, I don't have any other weights here at home, do you think that would be wise to go up in size? It chrono'd at 331 +/- 9 (which I'm not too impressed at after upgrading all compression parts in order to get a good seal) with the 0.25's. Is that too hot for outdoor site - probably 360 with 0.2's?
Got a game tomorrow so will just be taking everything out and going with original G&P hop up + standard bucking/nub. Get back to tinkering with it next week.
P.S. I just discovered the WE M9A1 I bought for the gf has a burst fire function, it's simply awesome! Made my day that did.
Nick
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Richard_severn
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#7
3 May, 2014, 21:15
Re: R-Hop advice
What barrel are you using and what rhop kit are you using. I don't like sabding the inside down because when I did shots hooked left (sorted I with more sanding) if it was a a issue with the hop your results should be constant not left and right.
For your air seal have you tried putting the hop up against the gearbox and blowing to see if any air leaks out. You shouldn't really be able to get any air past when the nozzle is all the way forward.
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Nick87
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#8
3 May, 2014, 23:41
Re: R-Hop advice
Hi
I have the IR-Hop (ice blue colour). Do you think it would be better to go with the larger radius Hop and sand the outside down rather than inside, assuming that the larger radius will have better internal clearance. How you you go about getting Hop to fit without sanding then. Hooking of the pellets both left and right also confused me, but maybe a poor job cutting the nub exactly square gave uneven pressure - was very difficult to cut down the height and get this smooth, then after trying the file it flat, only seemed to get worse, though it's not awful and has general parallel shape.
I did not alter the opening size on the barrel however, which after talking to the someone at socom airsoft today should be done. I figured that there was still a lot more surface area contact than normal bucking/nub, so there should be improvements regardless. Hop was still not glued in during last tests but if it doesn't fit perfectly I don't even want to entertain that idea. Barrel is a Madbul 6.03 standard M4 length.
Nick
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richw
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#9
4 May, 2014, 22:32
Re: R-Hop advice
I've never used the patches but I think you would be better off with a hand file, with a dremel you could easily end up taking too much off. I thought there were 3 slightly different sizes so you pick the best one for your barrel profile and go from there and I believe (but could be wrong) that the patches should be smooth inside and out.
The whole point of gluing the patch in is to stop it moving - which could be causing your fliers! Nubs can cause this as well, need to ideally make sure they are the full width of the hop arm. If you have to cut the patch lengthwise to fit into the window then you could benefit from opening up the window but that's another thing to go wrong.
How did you mod the hop rubber?
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RitchieTheBrit
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#10
5 May, 2014, 12:25
Re: R-Hop advice
Did you radius the leading edge of the patch slightly? From what I've read this can cause side deviations...
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