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ICS M4 Trying to locate issue.

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  • ICS M4 Trying to locate issue.

    Background story:

    ICS-23-C150.jpg

    ICS M4A1 C-15 (2008)
    Original battery: 3700mAh - M16 Full stock
    All internals stock aside from Metal Bushings and an M90 spring.

    Changes:

    ICS M4 Crane stock.
    NiMH 2000 mAh Battery
    ICS Sling plate.

    Everything else stock.

    ICSM4A1C15.jpg


    Gun dies 5 years ago, continuous firing issues to bb's going flying
    to misfeeding. Unable to fix having no knowledge.

    IN STORAGE FOR 5 years in a rifle bag in a cupboard with no use.

    Taken to ZeroOne, (2014)

    Fires, BB's don't follow a trajectory, and then dies again.
    All within the space of an hour. Decided to put it back in it's back and forget about the hobby.

    =====END of sob story======


    ------------------
    Decided to teach myself in my spare time how to get all technical.

    During the last 6 months watching videos on pulling it apart and what to look out for.

    ------------------

    Inner Barrel / Hop Unit

    Open it up: Pull out Hop and barrel, notice the bucking nub is missing (explains the trajectory being awful) and the winding wheel is stiff. Bought new Hop unit and assembled myself and put it back with the barrel.

    All ICS. Barrel original, all clear and clean.

    ------------------

    Upper receiver Gearbox

    Open it up. Find stripped piston. Rear half missing.
    DSC_0053.jpg

    Still not firing.

    Harvest parts from a new ICS MA-48 Gearbox (metal piston with I believe a tooth missing on purpose. Put in the new Spring M120 as the M90 has a broken connector attached to it.
    ------------------

    Lower receiver


    Gears spin then stop. Found missing portion of upper gearbox hidden underneath the Sector gear.
    Unable to remove it. I open up the entire thing and retrieve the piece.

    Assemble: Still not firing.


    -----------------

    Purchase a new smart charger WE SM4 80W Smart Charger.

    Charge battery fully on 0.5A

    Still not firing.


    ---------------

    Motor

    ICS Turbo 3000


    A small amount of fine copper dust on the lower baseplate. Still works

    ---------------

    I give up and put it a brand new upper gearbox and a brand new lower gearbox. Both stock. I picked up a load of spare parts which have been around in a box for a while now. So these came in handy.
    Battery fully charged. Motor defiantly connected. Motor height adjusted.


    Fires. Then gearbox does not cycle. Have to press the forward assist to reset. Tries again. Fires.. sometimes doesn't fire.

    Manages to finally fire 3 mags worth then seizes again. Good rate of fire and the Hop up seems to be working well.

    Every time the trigger is pulled you can feel the AEG trying then just stopping. Pressing the forward assist/tension release resets it but it still sounds as if it's dying.



    Surely it has to be now either the Motor or Battery? Battery too weak? Motor too old? Battery not used for 5 years? Motor too weak?





    I hope to eventually re-build the original gearbox using better parts in the future. I'm now at the stage where I can full disassemble and reassemble and is reasonable knowledgeable in how it now functions..... sort of.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Cpl-Mowatt; 12 June, 2015, 10:30.

    BLOOD DRAGON Mk.IV STYLE / RELEASE THE DREMEL

  • #2
    Re: ICS M4 Trying to locate issue.

    Motor is gonna be my stab in the dark....

    either worn brushes or the armature has a fault causing it to have a dead zone point
    had a SHS one like that stripped out and replaced the armature with an old 28tpa from a ferrite motor
    runs n pulls crazy stuff now.

    Just before you buy a new motor I would run that motor and keeping spamming the trigger
    (motor out of pistol grip btw)
    but make sure the motor comes to a complete dead stop before firing again
    hopefully say a dozen triggers or so later you might find that dead zone point - hopefully
    (well that is what happened to the shs one - 9/10 it would run but now n then it just failed to turn over)

    it might not fail to turn over and the motor could be getting knackered with old brushes - bits of copper/carbon dust
    and with a m120 the worn stock motor might not enough grunt anymore especially if worn

    it is firing but intermittent which is always a trickier problem to diagnose but reckon that is worn motor
    could be the winding slightly iffy connection or a weak point in copper winding but easy way is to replace armature perhaps
    as it is probably a black ferrite motor - look at end of gear and you should see black for ferrite
    or silver if you are very lucky for stronger neodym motor - yeah if ya really really lucky but don't hold ya breath

    replace with a half decent neodym one for about £25 to £30 and reckon problem solved
    poxy guns

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: ICS M4 Trying to locate issue.

      Ok, had a go with the motor out of the pistol grip.


      Motor spins. After trigger is released it quickly slows down to a stop which looks pretty solid. It's not spinning freely (difficult to describe) Motor though does get quite hot fast.

      I can't seem to find a dead zone point you described.


      I stuck in a spare (not the same type but still ICS) "Super Japan motor" - It fires but then still having the same problem of firing perfectly then it just seizes and it doesn't shoot.

      Both the Battery and the Motor are extremely hot after 10-15 mins shooting.

      BLOOD DRAGON Mk.IV STYLE / RELEASE THE DREMEL

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: ICS M4 Trying to locate issue.

        Now have either a dead motor or a dead battery.

        Tried both motors outside the pistol grip. Absolutely no power in either.


        Getting there. Going to try a new battery

        BLOOD DRAGON Mk.IV STYLE / RELEASE THE DREMEL

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: ICS M4 Trying to locate issue.

          Originally posted by Cpl-Mowatt View Post
          It's not spinning freely (difficult to describe) Motor though does get quite hot fast.

          I can't seem to find a dead zone point you described.

          Both the Battery and the Motor are extremely hot after 10-15 mins shooting.
          Motor should not be getting hot after just a bit of spamming outside the box
          I can't see/feel how hot is hot and everybody has there own levels of warm/hot etc.....
          but a dozen cycles motor should be a little warm as there is no load on it - not hot

          getting hot but tbh never ran a motor for 15 mins solid me thinks

          a motor getting too warm or hot too quickly could be poor brushes or shimming of armature
          the armature usually finds itself in the centre of the magnet's field and some plastic or bakerlite washers shims keep it there
          with just a smidge of play much like the gearbox shimming. If shimmed to tight or too low/high like bevel gear then strain & heat can occur

          but to try a 2nd motor and problem is same is a bit odd and somewhat baffled me

          now battery looks like it has crapped out - possible dead cell over time now totally dead perhaps
          usually dying a cell will mean battery lasts only a very short while

          But you was describing the intermittent of it and that when unlocked or AR released it would cycle again
          so I was stabbing at motor issue and its dead spot perhaps......

          This could be a very long winded process of elimination atm........

          first thing first you might be better taking it back to basics and with a good battery
          heck even a psu of some description get that or other motor running on a table without too much heat

          BUT only if you know what you are doing and properly set up the motor testing with psu/battery
          (can use a pc psu on either 5v or maybe not 12v but only if you follow common sense for christ sake and only mess with stuff if you know what you are doing)

          next if that is working ok plug into gun's wiring - it could also have a switch or wire fault - possible crushed wires
          poor motor connectors or mega carbon build up on switch contacts.
          So test motor out of box with good battery or 5v psu of a good decent supply

          If then she runs ok without too much heat then test in box with battery - not psu as motor will be under great load on m120 etc....

          Now locking up in box and heat could be shimming - yes gears sound ok but if bevel is shimmed a tiny bit low it creates great strain
          as motor pinion is wound in and forces bevel hard against the top bushing/bearing - not exact schreeching but a big strain rather than schreech

          this "could" be happening as well but it don't explain the motor overheating outside the box

          that as I said could be wiring, brushes, motor's shimming etc and will have to back to simple stages to establish exact cause
          in case of motor don't mess about with it too much coz brushes and stuff may not be fantastic and it is still an old ferrite motor
          so a new motor at some point may be needed but still need to reduce the hot motor running on its own problem

          it might be a number of things - gearbox could have low shimming or piston catching plus the m120 on an old ferrite ain't helping

          keep us updated on how you are getting on but like I say might have to really go back to bare bone basic tests
          fix the main problem and perhaps remedy any others that you discover as you put her back together in stages

          weird motor heating up out of box like I said but as its ICS you can run the motor in lower box with just a smidge of stress turning gears over before replacing top half and start pulling back the spring/piston

          so you have got a lot of testing stages to go through but at least you should be able to narrow it down fairly soon I reckon

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: ICS M4 Trying to locate issue.

            Trial and Error complete


            Barrel and Hop up unit - New, clean and clear

            Upper receiver gearbox - New, no damage to piston, tappet plate. All moving

            Lower receiver gearbox - New, stock, no lateral gear movement, very well shimmed for a stock ICS gearbox. Gears spin freely if motor and anti reversal latch are disengage. No signs of wear and tear.

            Motor - Turbo 3000 - full working order.

            Battery - 2000mAh NiMH - DEAD



            Replaced battery with new 2000mAh, charged at 0.2A. Tested motor, sparks flying everywhere, high speed, tried another motor also sparks and extreme speed.

            Battery was the cause of the problem, unable to hold a charge and unable to cycle the gearbox. Battery had been out of use for 5 years.



            Very happy to have it in full working order. Hope to clean out the old split gearbox and put in some new wiring as the contacts were burnt and the selector plate contact was also off it's rail so it failed to fully contact the rest of the trigger assembly.

            BLOOD DRAGON Mk.IV STYLE / RELEASE THE DREMEL

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: ICS M4 Trying to locate issue.

              Congrats on getting her working once again

              Battery was main problem - blimey

              Seems maybe it need a thorough diagnosis/strip down too and as for the old spare box.....
              top gearbox - new higher/lower spring in case you go to different sites
              lower gearbox when rebuilding - always have option of perhaps trying out a 14:1 gear set when you rebuild

              so having the spare box ready to go with different spring/gears could be a bonus after all this grief

              did wonder how you was getting on - thanks for update even though I was way off with initial motor guess
              but congrats once more on getting her singing again after all that "fun"

              Comment

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