V2 trigger switch

[spencer627]

My trigger contacts burnt out so I brought a replacement for my Tm mp5 gearbox
When it arrived it only had two tabs beneath the contacts and not the copper runs to the selector plate

Now is this new 'closed' circuit switch
If so how does the fire selector work? Will it still shoot semi and full if I wire it up this way
I have a airfet nb installed with it


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[Sitting Duck]

Re: V2 trigger switch

perfectly fine

the old design relies on the rear prongs being bridged by copper on selector plate
this was an additional safety feature that sometimes created issues if copper plate did not make perfect contact 101%

SHS G&P D-Boys G&G don't have not rear contacts (or don't need a copper selector plate)
Cyma, SRC and maybe others like TM have contacts at rear and must have a copper selector plate

It will work fine in your case/gun
the main circuit is completed when trigger trolley makes contact inside
(rear prongs was just an extra safety feature - tbh a pita if they didn't always make true perfect contact 101% all the time)

[spencer627]

Re: V2 trigger switch

Do I have to bridge the selector plate? that I have read up on and someone said it?



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[spencer627]

Re: V2 trigger switch

So il just wire it up how it's ment to then assemble it altogether minus the copper runs off the trigger switch


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[Sitting Duck]

Re: V2 trigger switch

From what you seem to be saying.....

your old switch had the prongs at the back that needed the copper strip on selector plate to close that extra safety circuit
You bought a new v2 switch and by the sounds of it maybe a shs one that doesn't have the prongs at the back....

yup - just solder in the new switch, you can leave the copper plate on selector plate even though it won't be needed - leave it there

The bridging you refer to is when the copper plate is suspected to not be making perfect contact on an old style switch
or if you bought a new selector plate with no copper or can't reuse old one etc....
In these instances then bridge the prongs at the rear with a soldered covered staple/wire to close the circuit

tbh the rear prongs on old switches are a pita, they can cause sporadic firing - on AB mosfet's they can start messing up if the rear connectors start to arc or provide an unsound closure of the circuit, if your trigger safety functions ok then the old additional switch safety at the rear can be shorted or done away with. Often it is just easy to bridge these prongs if installing a mosfet anyway and be done with it.

Just curious if your switch contacts are really shot if you have been using a mosfet - but then damage could have taken place prior to mosfet install
If the internal contacts that make contact with trolley are ok - you could flatten the rear prongs and just bridge them with soldered staple/wire
(not just solder - something like staple works perfectly soldered on there)

but a new shs switch unit will not need the copper to make contact - coz it doesn't have the prongs at rear coz that part is closed already or rather actually doesn't exist - just needs the two internal contacts bridged by the trigger trolley

[spencer627]

Re: V2 trigger switch

You are one very helpful man

Yes just brought the mosfet because the trigger contacts failed and wiring it In now to prevent further damage

Okay il do that and get back to you
Many thanks my friend


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