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Major
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#16
15 September, 2010, 19:21
Re: deans soldering problems
The flux is in the solder if it is electrical solder, plummers solder needs flux, as well as more heat because it is a lot thicker
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caffin999
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#17
15 September, 2010, 19:51
Re: deans soldering problems
right I'm going to get some flux tomorrow and give it another go. I'm not to sure about the connector on the gun as it was troublesome. I'm thinking I might cut it off and redo it. but I'll need some more wire
what guage would you recommend?
cheers
TM SCAR-L / LCT TACTICAL AK VARIANT / G&G UMP / MARUZEN P99 FIXED SLIDE / TM 18C AEP
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Genista
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#18
15 September, 2010, 20:00
Re: deans soldering problems
As said above, the solder you have ought to have flux built in to it, but a little extra shouldn't hurt. Again roughing the surface could help but shouldn't be necessary.
To me it sounds like the iron is not heating the tab of the connector sufficiently. What power is your soldering iron?
Also, are you heating the tab first and then touching the solder to the tab or the iron?
Originally posted by
TLSFx on the misuse of pyros
Never wave them at police firearms response teams. Those people have (real) guns and no sense of humour.
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caffin999
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#19
16 September, 2010, 01:36
Re: deans soldering problems
i will try to borrow another soldering iron then. soldering irons are the bane of my life at mo. borrowed one off friend. it was old and promptly stopped working. bought one off ebay, was so cheap it broke within 3 mins. and now my mate's one might not be hot enough! it did seem a little temperamental. I think a flat headed tip will really help also, especially with the thick battery wires
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jfox61
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#20
16 September, 2010, 03:02
Re: deans soldering problems
As said a few times above caff. It sounds like you aren't letting the Deans tabs heat up enough.
Here's how I do it, and I also use maplins solder so it shouldn't be a problem.
1. plug the deans male and female together. This will stop the plastic melting and deforming when you heat the tabs. If you don't, the plastic will get hot and soft, and the tabs will move in the plastic. This means when it comes to connect, the tabs won't align and you'll never get them to fit.
2. Using a clamp of some sort, either a modellers clamp or mini vice, hold the deans firmly. This way, you don't need to handle it as it will get bloody hot.
3 Heat the solder tip. Leave it for about 10 minutes to heat up, thats what I do anyway.
4 When it's hot, place it on the underside of the deans tab you want to solder, and the solder on the top side. When the tab is hot enough the solder will run on to the tab, tinning it. Melt small blob of solder onto the tinned tab using the same technique
5. do the same for your wires.
6. Again, using the clamp for the connector, hold the wire to the tab. Put the Iron underneath again, and as the tab gets hot, the previously applied solder will again melt joining the wire and tab solidly. As soon as it melds, take the iron from the tab and hold onto the wire a few seconds for it to cool and solidify.
Using this method you should never need to put solder on the tip of your iron. That is incorrect usage of a soldering iron anyway.
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Genista
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#21
16 September, 2010, 08:09
Re: deans soldering problems
Apart from tinning the tip at the start, which is recommended.
Looking back at this thread, what shape is the tip of the iron you're using?
The shape affects how easily heat is transferred. If it's a cone shape, then it could be that the iron is powerful enough but the tip can't transfer heat quickly enough.
Originally posted by
TLSFx on the misuse of pyros
Never wave them at police firearms response teams. Those people have (real) guns and no sense of humour.
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caffin999
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#22
16 September, 2010, 11:12
Re: deans soldering problems
its one of those electronic fine tipped ones. think you are right about that genista. and fox thanks for the help. should be ok now
TM SCAR-L / LCT TACTICAL AK VARIANT / G&G UMP / MARUZEN P99 FIXED SLIDE / TM 18C AEP
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caffin999
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#23
16 September, 2010, 11:14
Re: deans soldering problems
that tip about putting the male and female connectors will be very useful
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#24
16 September, 2010, 11:27
Re: deans soldering problems
Yeah, sound like the the tip is the problem. In electronics work, components are more sensitive to heat damage, hence the more accurate tips and usually lower melting point solder.
Once you have a better tip, using the tip about connecting two deans together creates a heatsink effect which, as JFox quite rightly points out, stops the plastic overheating and melting, is definitely recommented.
Good luck.
Originally posted by
TLSFx on the misuse of pyros
Never wave them at police firearms response teams. Those people have (real) guns and no sense of humour.
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MajorLandmark
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#25
16 September, 2010, 12:00
Re: deans soldering problems
If you do a lot of soldering (more than once in a blue moon) it may be worth getting a better iron. I've always had good results with ones with adjustable thermostats. If you cant afford £50+ for one of those, and dont do enough soldering to warrent it anyway, you just have to learn to make the best use of what you can justify buying. Using extra flux is an incredibly useful way of making soldering easier and neater, and I'd recomend it to anyone having problems.
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caffin999
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#26
16 September, 2010, 12:19
Re: deans soldering problems
thats the problem landmark I only solder once in a blue moon
guys one last thing before I give this another go.
where can i get flux from. need like a common high street store
cheers
TM SCAR-L / LCT TACTICAL AK VARIANT / G&G UMP / MARUZEN P99 FIXED SLIDE / TM 18C AEP
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MajorLandmark
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#27
16 September, 2010, 12:44
Re: deans soldering problems
I'm pretty sure you can buy it from maplins. Problem is they might not stock it in your nearest.
It comes in a sort of pen dispenser and is just under a tenner. Should last a fair while though.
Edit: You can do a stock check on their website before going down there and wasting a trip
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caffin999
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#28
16 September, 2010, 12:53
Re: deans soldering problems
just found there is a screwfix not too far from me. cheers guys
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