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Treeman
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Join Date:
Feb 2013
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#1
TM 1911 Problems
10 March, 2013, 08:50
Hi, calling all 1911/pistol pros.
I've just got my second hand TM 1911 and its got a few issues, first bbs are getting stuck inside the barrel and the inner cilinder bit that feeds the bb into the barrel, keeps getting stuck which in turn stops it from blowing back. |I've taken it apart and cleaned it and applyed a little silicon to moving parts which didn't do anything. Im running i on duster gas and .25g.
If someone could offer a bit of help that would be great?
Thanks
Ed
A decision should be made within seven breaths. It is a matter of being determined, and having the spirit to break through to the other side.
sid0201
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#2
10 March, 2013, 09:13
I know its the most basic thing to do but I know I've forgotten to do it before, have you cleaned the barrel?
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You’d think that lipos are prone to failure and then spawn gremlins who then tear up your garden, embroider your underwear, wet your bed, then swap your sports car with a Prius.
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Boo-Sabum Ben
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#3
10 March, 2013, 09:28
Re: TM 1911 Problems
heres what you need to do:
Take the entire slide off
remove the blowback unit (look on youtube for how)
remove the loading nozzle, and unscrew the piston lid.
Give them both a good clean, and lube with silicone oil if you have it, if not, the spray should do fine.
slot them back together and work the action of it extending and retracting, until the oil has got around and loosened everything up.
Once thats done, give the pistol a good clean in the barrel, and wash the hop rubber in warm soapy water (a dirty hop rubber will cause jams too)
put it all back together, and it should work as normal. If it doesnt, then there could be a problem in the lower frame, or the magazine. (a malfnctioning valve knocker, or a stiff and broken mag release valve
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jonny lovegrove
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#4
10 March, 2013, 10:56
^that
/thread
-TM Recoil M16 Custom- -TM 1911 MEU- -Tanaka SAA- -TM HK45- -JG G36k Ris-
-ECHO1 SA58 OSW- -A&K Masada- -VFC FNX-45- -TM Recoil AKs-74u-
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StargateP90
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#5
10 March, 2013, 15:30
Re: TM 1911 Problems
Throw away the Duster and use GG Or Propane.
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Treeman
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#6
10 March, 2013, 21:14
Re: TM 1911 Problems
Originally posted by
Boo-Sabum Ben
View Post
heres what you need to do:
Take the entire slide off
remove the blowback unit (look on youtube for how)
remove the loading nozzle, and unscrew the piston lid.
Give them both a good clean, and lube with silicone oil if you have it, if not, the spray should do fine.
slot them back together and work the action of it extending and retracting, until the oil has got around and loosened everything up.
Once thats done, give the pistol a good clean in the barrel, and wash the hop rubber in warm soapy water (a dirty hop rubber will cause jams too)
put it all back together, and it should work as normal. If it doesnt, then there could be a problem in the lower frame, or the magazine. (a malfnctioning valve knocker, or a stiff and broken mag release valve
Thanks, that's a huge help. Ill try it soon as possible.
- - - Updated - - -
Originally posted by
StargateP90
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Throw away the Duster and use GG Or Propane.
I heard you shouldn't use Green Gas on TM's as the plastic parts can't take the power?
A decision should be made within seven breaths. It is a matter of being determined, and having the spirit to break through to the other side.
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Apurturesci
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#7
10 March, 2013, 21:26
Re: TM 1911 Problems
Originally posted by
Treeman
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I heard you shouldn't use Green Gas on TM's as the plastic parts can't take the power?
Not true for most models, the 1911 is fine with higher powered gas. I used my Detonics, which is a smaller cut-down 1911 on Guarder Powerful gas (more powerful than Propane) for a year with no visible wear. 1911 sides seem inherently tough. I use Abbey Ultra normally to make sure they last as long as possible, but in a 1911 especially Green/Propane is fine.
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Wolfgeorge
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#8
10 March, 2013, 22:00
Re: TM 1911 Problems
Originally posted by
Boo-Sabum Ben
View Post
heres what you need to do:
Take the entire slide off
remove the blowback unit (look on youtube for how)
remove the loading nozzle, and unscrew the piston lid.
Give them both a good clean, and lube with silicone oil if you have it, if not, the spray should do fine.
slot them back together and work the action of it extending and retracting, until the oil has got around and loosened everything up.
Once thats done, give the pistol a good clean in the barrel, and wash the hop rubber in warm soapy water (a dirty hop rubber will cause jams too)
put it all back together, and it should work as normal. If it doesnt, then there could be a problem in the lower frame, or the magazine. (a malfnctioning valve knocker, or a stiff and broken mag release valve
The above should do the trick!
I use ONLY GG on my TM's! I have zero problems with them but I usually install a metal slide (or even frame if it's 1911) right at the moment I first take them out of the box!
Wolf
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Treeman
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#9
12 March, 2013, 10:18
Re: TM 1911 Problems
Originally posted by
Apurturesci
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Not true for most models, the 1911 is fine with higher powered gas. I used my Detonics, which is a smaller cut-down 1911 on Guarder Powerful gas (more powerful than Propane) for a year with no visible wear. 1911 sides seem inherently tough. I use Abbey Ultra normally to make sure they last as long as possible, but in a 1911 especially Green/Propane is fine.
I know thw one. Almost bought one. Ok. Thanks. Ill have to go gg shopping.
- - - Updated - - -
Originally posted by
Wolfgeorge
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The above should do the trick!
I use ONLY GG on my TM's! I have zero problems with them but I usually install a metal slide (or even frame if it's 1911) right at the moment I first take them out of the box!
Wolf
Ok. Thats very helpful. Ill just run it on gg for a while and see what happens. Ed
A decision should be made within seven breaths. It is a matter of being determined, and having the spirit to break through to the other side.
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Boo-Sabum Ben
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#10
12 March, 2013, 10:37
A few other things I have found help with efficiency:
- Taking some of the strength off the disconnector sear (not a lot of the trigger will foul).
- filing the small 'pillars' near the end of the blowback unit (nozzle end) the nozzle has two tabs that can catch on these pillars from time to time.
- harder nozzle springs, Airsoft surgeon do them, quite useful especially with a better seal on the nozzle/piston lid
- correctly seated hop rubber (the nozzle can get stuck for longer than necessary in the hop rubber if its not seated properly, so make sure that's done properly
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