LCT (v.2009) vs VFC AKM

[Panoptes]

Re: LCT (v.2009) vs VFC AKM

Cheers again. Awesome. I love info like this.

I was aiming for an 'early Afghan conflict' MRD infantry piece so looks like I nailed it.

I also just found: http://tantal.kalashnikov.guns.ru/variants.html

Just bagged a full wood stock 74 but still open to offers on an AKM or AKMS....

The VFC I've just bought appears to have the 'closed vent holes' on the handguard as pictured above.

Cheers.

[mightyjebus]

Re: LCT (v.2009) vs VFC AKM

Tantel is an excellent source on russian weapons.

Here are some pointers if your going to get it to look as realistic as possible (and as it's you then that means yes!)

below is 2 AKS74's but the full stock AK74 should be the same:
the fist AKS74 is actually an AKS74N because it has a rail to attach scopes whereas the second picture is a AKS74. the N is a western term not used by the russians themselves but it allows us westerners to tell the difference between models. (also M, U and a couple of other letters are used for different models.)


the good thing about VFC AK74's is that they come with some features that are correct but hard to correct on other makes (Kalash being one)
The rear sight and stock catch are the correct silver/gunmetal colour on the VFC whereas on the Kalash/ICS/TM they are black.


VFC above. Kalash below.


one downside to all AEG AK74's is the flash hider. some models are too slim and all models suffer from being to good. I know this sounds daft but if you look at the tantel site you will see how crude the real ones are. the good news is that the VFC thread matches the real thing so buying a real one and fitting is very simple.
VFC flash hider.

real flash hider

when viewed from the front you will notice the real flash hider has a silver collar unlike the AEG version. you could paint the inside of the AEG version to match if you don't want to buy a real one.

one other thing worth doing is comnverting real magazines to work in the AEG. All orange polymer AK74 mags for airsoft look rubbish. you can use some red wood stain to make them look more realistic or alternatively you can get some real magazines and chop them up so that G&P midcaps fit inside them.
real magazine.


Since you now have the full stock version I'll give you a quick run down on fitting a real stock to it. if you decide to do this remember it's a right royal pain.

the real stock has a large wooden plug that would side inside the receiver but since we have a gearbox taking up that room then we have to chop it off flush to the start of the visible rear part of the stock. this part is pretty easy if your handy with a saw.
to make the stock fit onto the back of the receiver we need to now cut a large square hole into the stock so that the stock tang will fit inside it. this gives the stock strength and also this is where the screws secure the stock to the receiver. the biggest problem is that the real stock has a metal pin through it just where we need this hole. the other problem is that this hole needs to be centrally located and not be to high, low, left or right or the stock will stick out on one of these sides and look pants.
I mark the hole onto the stock with a pencil then use an auger bit to drill as wide as I need and then use my dremel to remove the parts of the metal pin inside the hole. once this is done you need to then use a chisel for fine tuning to get the stock to fit.
this is where the swearing, sweating and generally getting pissed off with the idea of doing this in the first place happens. on top of all that you need to be careful not to cut through the sides of the stock and also not damage the finish on the stock as well.

the good news is once this is done it does look good and another good bit of news is that because the VFC is receiver wired you don't need to drill the stock out to fit a battery (unless your mad and want to!)

[mightyjebus]

Re: LCT (v.2009) vs VFC AKM



fitting the front hand guards is simple if you haver a dremel. the lower hand guard will need the large rectangular plug at the rear slimming down using a sharp stanley knife to allow it to fit into the rectangular hole on the receiver. the front lip on the lower hand guard is also too pronounced and will need cutting to allow it to fit inside the lower hand guard retainer. I use a fine saw to chop off about 3mm so that the lower hand guard retainer sits flush to the front of the lower hand guard.
the uppers have too lips as well which will need the same treatment and you might have to also thin all 3 lips using a craft knife to fit inside the retainers (upper gas tube and lower retainer). the upper is also too thick for the gas tube which travels throught the upper hand guard to the receiver so a dremel with a snading bit is needed to thin this down. it's a case of trail and error to get the right thickness so it's best to sand a bit, dry fit and sand some more until your happy it fits.

Hope this helps!

[Panoptes]

Re: LCT (v.2009) vs VFC AKM

Ta. I am thoroughly moist. :D

I take it an 'S' conversion (at some future point) would mean a whole new receiver?

Might do that flash hider thing once I get a sling for it.

Off to find a local quarry - so I can throw it off for a bit of rapid weathering.

[mightyjebus]

Re: LCT (v.2009) vs VFC AKM

I wouldn't bother even trying to make another receiver and I would suggest just getting another AKS74. finding half a VFC isn't something that is likely to happen.

good luck weathering the VFC. the baked painted finish is a bugger to shift. My weathering is natural and after 5 years skirmishing with the AKS74 model it's hardly shifted any of the finish.

[Panoptes]

Re: LCT (v.2009) vs VFC AKM

@Boris & co... You were right; the VFC is no Real Sword...

It's nice enough though, if a little light/flimsy. Going to have to weather the shit out of it.

[Panoptes]

Re: LCT (v.2009) vs VFC AKM

Got 200fps with .25g. Ecchh...

Had to open her up - dry as a witch's tit inside. Must have been sitting around for quite a while in its box.

Regrease, Guarder clear hop, PTFE, SP110 spring and she's up to between 295-310fps on .25 (335fps ish with .2g).

A tightbore should up that to around 315fps (350fps / .2g)

Now to break out the hammer and sandpaper...