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Tr4shed
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#1
BAR-10
21 July, 2009, 15:56
To cock this gun is very difficult (Dont get me wrong, im not weak). But it's very stiff to cock it, and ideas how i can make it slide nicely?
TM VSR-10 GSPEC
Originally posted by
aeviv
I once saw a guy LITERALLY club a tree with his G36C, not a mark on it
mj23lj
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#2
21 July, 2009, 16:31
Re: BAR-10
Cleaning and lubricating...
Check this through thoroughly and anything that isn't answered I'd be happy to do so after:
http://zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?t=5069
Hope that helps,
Alex (mj23lj)
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B.E.N.
Airsoft International Magazine
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#3
21 July, 2009, 17:08
Re: BAR-10
What spring is in it, and is it the standard cylinder and piston? Also, is the spring guide stopper stock or an aftermarket part?
Having played about with my BAR 10 a good deal, there are a few things that could be giving you jip.
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#4
21 July, 2009, 18:02
Re: BAR-10
150 somethign spring apparantly
Just got it. Second hand
TM VSR-10 GSPEC
Originally posted by
aeviv
I once saw a guy LITERALLY club a tree with his G36C, not a mark on it
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B.E.N.
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#5
21 July, 2009, 19:10
Re: BAR-10
It's probably that combined with a lack of lubrication inside and out of the cylinder.
Possible other culprits being worn or poorly aligned receiver spacers, the spring guide stopper binding on the slot in the cylinder or the piston sear doing the same.
Best bet here is to remove the stock, pull the spring guide stopper out and release the cylinder. Make sure the cylinder releases out the back of the receiver smoothly.
Check the alignment rings inside the receiver are there and not ruined. Also, check for any deep scoring on the cylinder itself.
Check the slot on the underside of the cylinder, are it's side parrallel and smooth? Check the spring guide stopper for on it's sides, do the same for the piston sear. You'll sometimes see a groove worn in the sides, this is where the cylinder rubs on the protruding parts of the trigger mech and can cause friction or complete binding.
Take the spring guide stopper separately, does it fit into position on the cylinder correctly? If the slot in the cylinder catches, it will cause the bolt pull to feel horrible.
Lastly, you'll need to remove the cylinder head. Is the cylinder moving freely inside? Is the O ring seated correctly and is everything lubricated well and clean?
Hope this helps.
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#6
21 July, 2009, 20:27
Re: BAR-10
SQuirted the cocking thingy with a bit of WD40, cocks like well... um it should do :D
Thanks guys for the help
TM VSR-10 GSPEC
Originally posted by
aeviv
I once saw a guy LITERALLY club a tree with his G36C, not a mark on it
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guard-sniper87
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#7
21 July, 2009, 20:31
Re: BAR-10
right i know u say it has been rectified . before u cock it again .take the body off and there is a screw that holds the barrel into the bolt housing . check that this is not over tightened . if it is undo it as it will push less pressure onto the bolt .
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portermush
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#8
21 July, 2009, 20:45
Re: BAR-10
Originally posted by
Tr4shed
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SQuirted the cocking thingy with a bit of WD40, cocks like well... um it should do :D
Thanks guys for the help
do you use WD40!!!!!! ill make it rust, thats why you need proper ube not wd40!!!!
MKE
sharpshooter,
not sniper.
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#9
21 July, 2009, 21:00
Re: BAR-10
Originally posted by
Tr4shed
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SQuirted the cocking thingy with a bit of WD40, cocks like well... um it should do :D
Thanks guys for the help
Well done. Now you need to take the cylinder assembly apart and clean it, clean and re-grease the O rings.
WD-40 is a degreaser or
W
ater
D
isplacement agent. It will lubricate briefly but will also evaporate just as rapidly. I believe it also has negative effects on rubber seals.
If you need to use a spray on lube, go to Halfords and buy a can of GT-85.
GT-85 is very similar but contains a PTFE substance that is left behind when the rest of the stuff evaporates, it's much more effective as a lubricant and doesn't kill rubber.
Unless you spray WD-40 on your gun every 3 shots, you'll grind the poor thing into the ground.
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Tr4shed
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#10
21 July, 2009, 22:20
Re: BAR-10
I only sprayed the outside, nothing touched the inside. When and if i get the cash, ill buy some propper stuff
TM VSR-10 GSPEC
Originally posted by
aeviv
I once saw a guy LITERALLY club a tree with his G36C, not a mark on it
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mj23lj
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#11
22 July, 2009, 18:47
Re: BAR-10
GT85 seams pretty effective - I use it inbetween games (if needed) when a strip down isn't really what I want to do...
So I'm sure if you had a bottle lying around that would be alright, it is a silicone based agent.
EDIT: Sorry B.E.N. - I didn't realise you had already mentioned it (and I hate it when people ignore my posts - what a hypocrite I am). Anyway, just enforcing it then...
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#12
22 July, 2009, 18:49
Re: BAR-10
That WD40 has held up for about a day now, i've fired about 300 rounds too
TM VSR-10 GSPEC
Originally posted by
aeviv
I once saw a guy LITERALLY club a tree with his G36C, not a mark on it
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#13
22 July, 2009, 23:13
Re: BAR-10
Originally posted by
Tr4shed
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That WD40 has held up for about a day now, i've fired about 300 rounds too
It'll be slowly doing damage dude... It'll probably begin to feel nasty quite soon.
And to the post above, no problem!
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#14
23 July, 2009, 00:39
Re: BAR-10
Originally posted by
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It'll be slowly doing damage dude... It'll probably begin to feel nasty quite soon.
And to the post above, no problem!
Another question, how do i change the cylinder?
Could you post a video or something, from youtube maybe?
Thanks.
And WD-40 is all i've got sorry =/
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Originally posted by
aeviv
I once saw a guy LITERALLY club a tree with his G36C, not a mark on it
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bravotwozero
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#15
23 July, 2009, 01:31
Re: BAR-10
WD40?!?!?!?
You've broken a BIG rule.
Neve use oil based lubes... even if it's the only thing you've got! :/
Always
use silicone based.
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